Page 438 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Spain

436  SE VILLE

en el Refec torio (1655), which 3 Plaza de Toros de
was painted for the monastery la Maestranza
at La Cartuja (see p452).
Paseo de Cristóbal Colón 12. Map 3
B2. Tel 954 21 03 15.  Puerta Jerez.
2 Iglesia de la v Archivo de Indias. @ 3, 21, 40, 41,
Magdalena C5. Open 9:30am–7pm daily (Apr–
Oct: to 9pm). Closed Good Friday,
Calle San Pablo 10. Map 3 B1. Tel 95 25 Dec, from 3pm bullfight days. &
422 96 03. v Plaza Nueva. @ 3, 21, 8 ∑ realmaestranza.com
40, 41, 43, C5. Open hours vary, see Seville’s famous bullring was
website for details. 5 8–10:30am &
8:15pm Mon–Sat; 9am, 10:30am, built between 1761 and
noon & 8:15pm Sun, plus seasonal 1881 and holds up to 14,000
variations. ∑ rpmagdalena.org spec ta tors. Guided tours of this
immense building start from
This immense Baroque church the main entrance on Paseo de
by Leonardo de Figueroa, Cristóbal Colón. On the west side
com pleted in 1709, is gradually is the Puerta del Príncipe (Prince’s
Madonna and Child in the Baroque Iglesia being restored to its former Gate), through which the
de la Magdalena glory. In its southwest corner triumphant matadors are carried
stands the Capilla de la Quinta aloft by admirers from the crowd.
1 Museo de Angustia, a Mudéjar chapel Just beyond the enfermería
Bellas Artes with three cupolas. This chapel (emergency hospital) is a
survived from an earlier church museum of portraits, posters
Plaza del Museo 9. Map 1 B5. Tel 95 where the great Seville School and costumes, including a
554 29 42. @ C5, 6, 13, 14, 27, 32, 43. painter Bartolomé Murillo was purple cape painted by Pablo
Open 9am–8pm Tue–Sat, 9am–3pm baptized in 1618. Picasso. The tour continues on
Sun & public hols. & (free for EU The font that to the chapel where matadors
citizens) ^ 7 ∑ museos was used for his pray for success, and then to
deandalucia.es
baptism is now in the stables where the horses
The Convento de la the baptistry of the of the picadores (lance­carrying
Merced Calzada houses present build ing. The horsemen) are kept.
one of the best art church’s west front is The bullfighting season starts
museums in Spain. topped by a belfry which on Easter Sunday and continues
Completed in 1612 is painted in vivid colours. intermittently until October.
by Juan de Oviedo, the Among the religious Most corridas take place on
building is designed works in the church are a Sunday evenings. Tickets can
around three patios. painting by Francisco de be bought from the taquilla
The Patio Mayor is Zurbarán, St Dominic (booking office) at the bullring.
the largest of these, in Soria, housed in A few doors from the Plaza de
remodelled by the the Capilla Sacra­ Toros is the Teatro de la Maes­
architect Leonardo San Jerónimo Penitente in mental (to the right tranza. Seville’s opera house,
de Figueroa in the Museo de Bellas Artes of the south door), designed by Luis Marín de Terán
1724. The convent and frescoes by and Aurelio de Pozo, opened in
church is notable for its Baroque Lucas Valdés over the sanctuary. 1991. Fragments of ironwork from
domed ceiling, painted by On the wall of the north transept the 19th­century ammunition
Domingo Martínez. there is a cautionary fresco of a works that first occupied the
The museum’s collection of medieval auto-da-fé (see p278). site adorn the river façade.
Spanish art and sculpture, from
the medieval to the modern,
focuses on the work of Seville
School artists. Among the star
attractions is La Servilleta, a
Virgin and Child (1665–8), which
is said to be painted on a napkin
(servilleta). One of Murillo’s most
popular works, it may be seen in
the restored convent church.
The boisterous La Inmaculada
(1672) by Juan de Valdés Leal
is in a gallery devoted to the
artist’s forceful religious
paintings. Several fine works
by Zurbarán include San Hugo Arcaded arena of the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, begun in 1761
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp571–2 and pp597–8

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