Page 222 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

220  CENTR AL INDIA

The magnificent 16th-century tomb of the Afghan ruler Sher Shah Sur at Sasaram
2 Sasaram 3 Sonepur of exotic birds. As a sideshow
to the buying and selling of
Rohtas district. 158 km (98 miles) Saran district. 25 km (16 miles) N of
SW of Patna. £ @ Patna. @ n Bihar Tourism, Patna, animals, grain and fodder are
(0612) 222 5411. _ Sonepur Mela several troupes of folk singers
The dusty town of Sasaram, a (Oct/Nov). and magicians, nautanki
three-hour drive west of Patna (vaudeville) groups, dance
on the historic Grand Trunk North of Patna, across the bands, wrestlers and gymnasts,
Road (see p183), is famous for 7.5-km (5-mile) long Mahatma all exhibiting their skills on the
the Mausoleum of Sher Shah Gandhi Bridge over the Ganges, sands. In between trading and
Sur, the great Afghan ruler (see is the little town of Sonepur, entertainment, everyone takes
p83). This mid-16th-century known for its annual a holy dip in the river during this
architectural masterpiece is, mela, reputedly the largest most auspicious period in the
to quote architectural historian livestock fair in Asia. Hindu calendar.
Percy Brown, a testament to, The month-long The state tourism
“the aesthetic capacity of the fair begins on the department sets
Indian architect at its greatest, full moon of Kartik up a tourist village
and his genius at its highest”. Purnima, which a week in advance
With a spectacular setting usually falls in of the fair, and
in the middle of an artificial October or cottages and
lake, the pyramidal sandstone November. The tents can be
structure rises in five tiers to a mela site is a sandy booked at their
height of 45 m (148 ft). The first bank at the A mobile zoo at Sonepur’s office in Patna.
two tiers comprise of a stepped confluence of the huge cattle fair Even if buying an
basement and a high terrace Ganges and Gandak elephant (prices
that seem to emerge from the rivers, and attracts millions begin at about US$200) is
water, with a pavilion at each of sadhus, pilgrims and local not on a visitor’s agenda,
corner. The octagonal tomb rural families, as well as livestock the Sonepur Mela, with its
is set on this plinth, and tapers traders from all over India. colourful combination of religion,
towards the dome in three On sale are elephants, camels, entertainment and commerce,
elegant layers of arches, horses and cows, and an array is an unforgettable experience.
crenellated parapets and small
pillared kiosks. The broad dome
is crowned by a large gilded
lotus finial. All these elements
combine to create a superbly
proportioned structure that
appears to float above the lake.
Curiously, the tomb is
orientated eight degrees off
its main axis – a mistake that
the architect, Aliwal Khan, has
skilfully disguised. The brilliant
yellow-and-blue tiles are still
seen in places. Nearby is
the tomb of Sher Shah’s
father, Hasan Sur, built by
the same architect. Elephants being bathed during the Sonepur Mela
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p696 and p709

220-221_EW_India.indd 220 26/04/17 11:44 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.6)
Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm