Page 279 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India
P. 279

K OLK A T A      277

                           7 Maidan            Monument. It was named
                                               after Sir David Ochterlony, one
                           Bounded by Strand Rd, AJC Bose Rd,
                           Cathedral Rd & Eden Gardens Rd.    of the Raj’s daredevil soldiers,
                           St Paul’s Cathedral: Open daily.    who had led the British armies
                           5 7:30am, 8:30am, 10:30am    to victory in the Anglo-Nepal
                           & 6pm Sun.          War in 1816. The monument
                                               is a fluted Doric column, 48 m
                           In the heart of the city, this    (157 ft) high with a cupola for a
                           400-ha (988-acre) park stretches   roof. To its south is the Maidan’s
                           from the Hooghly river in the   most impressive building, the
                           west to Chow ringhee in    Victoria Memorial (see pp278–9).
                           the east, and contains several     A short distance from the
                           interesting areas and buildings.   Memorial is St Paul’s Cathedral.
                           In the early 18th century,    It was designed by Major WN
                           a dense jungle was        Forbes in 1847, and
                           cut down to build         its spire, modelled on
                           Fort William, after       Britain’s Canterbury
       Detail of the ornamental entrance of   the earlier mud fort   Cathedral, was added
       Nakhoda Mosque      was destroyed in          after the earlier one
                           1756. The present         was destroyed in the
       5 Nakhoda Mosque    fort, a squat, irregular   1934 earthquake.
                           octagon, was              Its grounds are lined
       1, Zakaria St. Tel 990 370 8808.
       Open daily. with permission.  completed in 1781.   with trees, and the
                           Today, it is the          interior is notable
       The city’s largest mosque,   headquarters of    for a superb stained-
       Nakhoda Mosque is based on   the Indian Army’s   glass window,
       the design of Akbar’s tomb at   Eastern Command   designed by Edward
       Sikandra (see p182). Built in 1926,   and not usually    Burne-Jones in
       it is surmounted by a dome and   open to the public.  memory of the
       faced with red sandstone, with     To the north of the   viceroy, Lord Mayo.
       minarets that rise to a height of   fort are the pleasantly     The Race Course is
       46 m (151 ft). It can accommodate   laid out Eden Gardens,   on the southwestern
       over 10,000 people for prayer,   where international   corner of the Maidan.
       but on major religious occasions,   cricket matches are   Racing is popular in
       people spill out on to the street.   held. They were   Kolkata and races are
       Nearby is the Hotel Royal, famous   conceived and   Stained glass,    held throughout the
       for its rich biryani and chaanp   designed in 1841    St Paul’s Cathedral  year. Polo is played
       (goat’s ribs cooked in spiced   by Emily and Fanny   here for a few weeks
       gravy). This is a fascinating    Eden, the sisters of the governor   in the winter season. The city’s
       neigh bourhood with 19th-   general, Lord Auckland. At the   two famous football clubs,
       cen tury mansions, old bazaars   northern corner of the Maidan   Mohun Bagan and East Bengal,
       and temples.        is the Burmese Pavilion set in    are based in the Maidan.
                           a small lake. This was brought     On Sunday afternoons,
       6 Armenian Church   here by Lord Dalhousie from   a lively fair with acrobats,
                                               mag icians and jugglers takes
                           Prome in Myanmar in 1854.
       of St Nazareth        To its east is the Shahid Minar,   place at the northern end of
                           literally “Martyrs’ Memorial”,   the Maidan. This is also the
       Armenian St, near Brabourne Rd.
       Open daily.         originally called Ochterlony   venue for large political rallies.
       Built by Armenian traders in
       1724, the Armenian Church
       of St Nazareth stands on the
       site of the original 1688 wooden
       church, which burnt down
       in 1707. Immigrants from
       Isfahan in Persia, the Armenians
       were among the earliest foreign
       traders to settle in Kolkata.
       Once a thriving community,
       today their numbers have
       dwindled. The church has a
       unique rounded spire, and its
       grounds house several graves
       with ornate tombstones.  Eden Gardens, the site of many cricket matches




   276-277_EW_India.indd   277                              26/04/17   11:54 am
   274   275   276   277   278   279   280   281   282   283   284