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WEST  BENGAL   &  SIKKIM      291


                            The Hooghly River
                                                 Bansberia


                                                Bandel
                                                 Hooghly
                             0 km  5
                             0 miles  5        Chinsurah
                                         Chandannagar


                                              Hooghly

       Visitors praying at the Church of Our    Barakpur
       Lady of Bandel
       established transformed the         Shrirampur
       river banks into a mini Europe
       – the remnants of which can                  Kolkata
       be best explored today by
       taking one of the river cruises.
         Up river from Kolkata is   Chandernagore, a library and   of Our Lady of Bandel,
       Shrirampur (Serampore), a   museum, and contains an   consecrated in 1599, is the
       Danish colony until 1845. Dr   interesting collection of French-  oldest in Eastern India. After
       William Carey, the first Baptist   era documents and artifacts.    being refaced in granite, it has,
       missionary in India (see p283),    The Église du Sacré Cœur has    however, lost some of its charm.
       set up the earliest printing press   a statue of Joan of Arc and a   People of all faiths still pray at
       here in 1799 and translated   Lourdes grotto.  the statue of Our Lady of Happy
       the Bible into several Indian   North of Chandannagar is   Voyages, an icon with an
       languages, including   Chinsurah (Chunchura), an   interesting history. In 1632, while
       Bengali, marking the   Armenian settlement, taken   the city was being sacked by the
       beginnings of modern   over by the Dutch in 1625   Mughal emperor Shah Jahan,
       Bengali prose. He also   and later by the British.   the icon was lost in the river, but
       founded the first        The Armenian Church   later reappeared miraculously on
       theological college,     was built in 1697,   the banks in front of the church.
       today Shrirampur         though the steeple was     Further north is Bansberia, site
       College, in 1818.        added a century later.   of several terracotta temples. The
       Its library houses a     The town of Hooghly,   Ananta Vasudeva Temple, built
       priceless collection      to the north, has an   in 1679, has a panel of warriors
       of 18th- and 19th-   Armenian Church,   impressive imambara   carved above the entrance, while
       century books.   Chinsurah  (mosque) built in   the Hanseshwari Temple, built
         On the east bank is     1836. Further upriver   in 1814, has a fabulous array of
       Barakpur (Barrackpore), the    is Bandel, founded by the   Kremlin-like onion domes and
       site of the British viceroys’ once-  Portuguese in 1580. The Church   an elaborately carved façade.
       gracious country house. The
       mansion, locally referred to as
       Lat Bagan (“Governor’s or Lord’s
       Garden”), was built by Lord
       Wellesley, the governor general
       in the early 19th century.
         Chandannagar (Chander-
       nagore), a French settlement
       from 1673 until 1952, still retains
       a Gallic ambience. The public
       benches on the waterfront
       (previously Quai Dupleix) are
       replicas of those found in Paris
       parks. The elegant Administrator’s
       Residence, built in the 18th
       century, is now the Institut de   The French Administrator’s Residence in Chandannagar
                                                  For keys to symbols see back flap


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