Page 498 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

496  SOUTHWESTERN INDIA

take the holy oil from was returned to the Portuguese
St Jerome’s church back to in exchange for Bassein, near
the nearby Shanteri Temple. Mumbai. Its ramparts, now
desolate, offer sweeping views of
Environs the coast. Chapora village, below
Mayem Lake, 14 km (9 miles) the fort, has many pleasant cafés.
southeast of Mapusa, is an
ideal picnic spot, with boating Environs
facilities and a good resort. The many fishing villages along
the northern coastline can only
be reached by taking a ferry
6 Vagator across the Chapora river from
Siolim, 10 km (6 miles) from
North Goa district (Bardez taluka).
17 km (11 miles) N of Panaji. Chapora village. The area around
Façade of St Jerome’s Church (Our Lady of @ Chapora village. the village of Morjim, 5 km
Miracles), Mapusa (3 miles) north of Chapora
A beautiful bay sheltered by village, is ideal for bird-watching.
5 Mapusa rocky outcrops at both ends, Mandrem is another quiet village
Vagator consists of a number of with a beautiful location and
North Goa district (Bardez taluka).
13 km (8 miles) N of Panaji. small beaches fringed by shady glorious beach, 12 km (7 miles)
* 40,000. £ @ n GTDC Hotel, coconut palms. Rarely crowded, north of Chapora village.
(0832) 226 2794. ( Fri. _ Feast it is the perfect place to discover
of Our Lady of Miracles (Apr). Goa’s unspoilt beauty.
The southernmost cove of 7 Pernem
In Mapusa, the largest town in Ozran lies below a steep cliff, North Goa district (Pernem taluka).
northern Goa, the main point where a freshwater stream 29 km (18 miles) N of Panaji.
of interest is the colourful empties into a clear pool, ideal @ 4 every half hour from Siolim.
Friday market, with for swimming. Little
its tantalizing aromas Vagator, to the The headquarters of Goa’s
of dried fish, spices, north, is a secluded northern most taluka, or sub-
chillies, vinegar, local stretch of sand district, Pernem was occupied
toddy and the spicy popular with more by the Portuguese in the mid-
Goan sausages, discerning visitors. 18th century. It was one of
chouriça. The region’s Big Vagator Beach the last conquests they made
famous cashew nuts is dominated by the between 1764 and 1788 –
are also much in red laterite Chapora a period during which they
demand. Hawkers Fort situated on expanded their territory to
peddle a range of Brightly coloured top of a hill at its include Pernem, Bicholim and
beachwear, including fishing nets northern tip. Now Satari in the north, and Ponda
cheap T-shirts and in ruins, this fort was (see p506), Sanquem, Quepem
summer dresses, in the built by the Portuguese in 1717 and Canacona in the south.
covered colonnades in front on the remains of an older By this time, the fervour for
of the rows of shops. In the bastion erected by the Adil Shahi conversions that existed
lanes leading off from the sultans. Its name, Chapora, is during the period of the early
main market are stalls selling derived from “Shahpura”, or conquests had waned, and
handicrafts and souvenirs “Town of the Shah”, as the village these areas remained
from all over the country. was once known. In 1739, predominantly Hindu.
St Jerome’s Church, also Sambhaji, the son of the Maratha The brightly painted
known as the Church of Our chief Shivaji (see p475), occupied Bhagavati Temple, in the bazaar,
Lady of Miracles, was rebuilt the fort for a short time until it stands on a 500-year-old site,
twice, first in 1719 and again
in 1838, after it was destroyed
by fire. Its main altar, with the
image of Nossa Senhora dos
Milagres, has some grand
ornamental screens, salvaged
from a church in Old Goa.
Interestingly, both Hindus
and Catholics celebrate the
Feast of Our Lady (held 16
days after Easter) with equal
fervour. At the end of the
festival Hindu devotees,
accompanied by Catholics, Shack restaurant on Morjim Beach
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p701 and pp715–16

496-497_EW_India.indd 496 26/04/17 11:47 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.6)
Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm