Page 499 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

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evenings with drum circles and
travellers practising tai chi
and capoeira. Unlike in central
Goa, the Hindu influence is
apparent here; the numerous
cafés and guest houses are
called Ganesha or Namaste Carnival king on a float
instead of Pete’s or Johnny’s.
At the northern end, a rocky Festivals of Goa
footpath leads to a second Jatra (Jan), Quepem.
A fisherman casting his net off beach, entirely surrounded A colourful festival (jatra)
Querim Beach by cliffs. This sandy cove has honouring local temple
a freshwater lagoon fed by deities is celebrated at the
although the present structure hot springs and lined with Shantadurga Temple (see
dates to the 18th century. sulphurous mud. A 5-km p506). Other such festivals
It is dedicated to the eight- (3-mile) long path, heading take place through the year
armed Bhagavati, an incarnation north, leads to Querim Beach at var ious temples in Ponda.
of Shiva’s consort Parvati. Its (pronounced “keri”) – a pristine
elaborate gateway is framed strip of white sand, backed Carnival (Feb), Panaji. Goa’s
by two life-size elephants. A by casuarina trees. grandest festival marks the
short distance from the bazaar beginning of Lent. “King
is the palatial Deshprabhu Momo”, who personifies fun
House, the 19th-century 9 Terekhol Fort and frolic, orders his subjects
mansion of the wealthy Hindu North Goa district (Pernem taluka). to forget their troubles, and
Deshprabhu family, who fought 42 km (26 miles) N of Panaji. @ leads a colourful parade
for Goa’s liberation in 1961. 4 every half hour from Querim. through the streets. Three
days and nights of non-
This spraw ling property can stop revelry follow.
only be viewed from the outside. Across the Terekhol river from
Querim is the little hamlet of
Terekhol, with Terekhol (Tiracol)
8 Arambol Fort situated on a plateau above
it. The early 18th-century fort
North Goa district (Pernem taluka). was captured by the Portuguese
50 km (31 miles) N of Panaji. @ in 1776 from the Bhonsles, a
4 every half hour from Siolim. Maratha clan. It was the scene
of an uprising in 1954, when a
Also known as Harmal, Arambol group of satyagrahis (freedom Masked dancers, Carnival
is the only fishing village in fighters) hoisted the Indian flag
North Goa that has some basic on its ramparts in an act of civil Shigmotsav (Shigmo)
facilities for visitors and is disobedience against colonial (Mar). This joyous Hindu spring
popular with the back packer rule. The fort’s high battlements festival is celebrated acoss the
crowd. Situated along one of face the sea, looking across the state. Festivities continue for
five days and include colourful
Goa’s less commercial beaches, waters to Fort Aguada, Arambol street floats (in the larger
it still retains all the charm of a and Chapora. The tiny chapel towns), local folk theatre,
traditional fishing village, except within the fort, with a statue of sword dances and the lively
for the occasional street vendor Christ in the courtyard, is usually spraying of coloured powder.
selling bright scarves and skirts. closed, but the atmospheric
There’s a sunset point on the Terekhol Fort Heritage Hotel All Saints Procession (Apr),
beach, which is lively in the offers some excellent views. Goa Velha, Pilar. Large crowds
of devotees carry statues of
26 saints in procession from
St Andrew’s Church, in this
small village near Pilar.

Feast of St Francis Xavier
(3 Dec), Old Goa. The feast of
Goa’s patron saint is held on
the anniversary of his death
(1552). Attended by Catholic
pilgrims from all over the
world, the feast is preceeded
by novenas (nine days
of prayer).
A holy cross on top of a knoll, Arambol Beach
Visitors relaxing on Candolim Beach, Goa

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