Page 573 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

CHENNAI  571

Anna Salai then enters its
commercial stretch. Along this
length of the road are some
of the city’s oldest commercial
landmarks, including one
of India’s largest bookshops,
Higginbotham’s (see p578),
Spencer’s, an international
department store, and the
Taj Connemara, one of
the city’s finest hotels.
Nearby but further down
is the 19th-century Thousand
Lights Mosque, which gets
its name from the tradition
of lighting 1,000 oil lamps to
Multi-arched façade of the Thousand Lights Mosque illuminate the Assembly Hall
that once occupied the site.
6 Anna Salai prestigious Gymkhana Club. Standing further south is
Sited close to the army head- St George’s Cathedral, planned
From Cooum Island to Little Mount.
Rajaji Hall: Tel (044) 2536 5635. quarters, this was an exclusive by James Lillyman Caldwell and
Open daily. facility for military officers. Until built by Thomas de Havilland in
1920, its membership was 1814. Its distinctive 42 m (138 ft)
A long arterial road leading from restricted to garrison officers tall spire is one of Chennai’s
north Chennai to Little Mount only, and, even today, the major landmarks.
at its southern end (see p577), club grounds belong to the
Anna Salai (or Mount Road) is armed services.
the city’s main thoroughfare. The The Old Government Estate,
“garden houses” that belonged southwest of the Gymkhana
to Chennai’s elite stood on Club, houses the mansion where
either side of it until well into the governors of Madras once
the early years of the 20th lived in regal splendour. Though
century. Today, it is a modern the main building is falling apart,
commercial road, lined with its banqueting hall, built in 1802
hoardings depicting film stars, by the second Lord Clive, the
and the expansive homes of eldest son of Robert Clive, retains
the past have been replaced its grandeur. It was named Rajaji
by multistoreyed buildings. Hall after the first Indian governor-
Anna Salai begins on an island general, C Rajagopalachari,
in Cooum Creek, just south popularly known as Rajaji.
of Fort St George. The site is Inside this elegant Neo-
watched over by the statue of Classical building, an impressive
Sir Thomas Munro, the governor broad staircase leads up to
of the Madras Presidency from the vast banqueting hall,
1819 to 1827. Nearby, set in an which has beautiful panelling Main altar in St George’s Cathedral, built
expanse of greenery, is the and chandeliers. in the early 19th century
Film Stars and Politics
The South Indian film industry, particularly Tamil and Telugu
cinema, is credited with having been the breeding ground of many
politicians. The first chief minister from the Dravidian Party (then
called DMK), the late Dr CN Annadurai, as well as his immediate
successor, M Karunanidhi, were both scriptwriters with large
followings. However, the most remarkable actor-turned-politican
was Maruthur Gopalan Ramachandran, whose portrayal of a
swashbuckling hero made him the embodiment of righteousness.
Popularly known as MGR, he acquired a cult status in the region and
was chief minister of Tamil Nadu from 1977 to 1987. His co-star
and protégée, Jayalalitha, another charismatic chief minister, was
ousted on charges of corruption in 2001, but was reinstated later
that year. Current heroes, such as Rajnikant and Kamal Haasan, have
Hoardings depicting popular South more macho images that depend heavily on daredevil stunts. They,
Indian heroes too, have fans throughout South India.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p702 and p717

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