Page 638 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

636  SOUTH INDIA

4 Mannarsala
Alappuzha district. 132 km (82 miles)
NW of Thiruvananthapuram, (0479)
216 0300. @ _ Thulam (Oct/Nov).
The custom of worshipping
snakes in Kerala reaches a
climax at Mannarsala, the best
known of the four main Naga
temples in the state. According
to legend, a woman from a
family of great Naga devotees
gave birth to two sons, one of
whom was a serpent-child, who
asked his family to worship him
An elephant being led down the steps of Aranmula’s Parthasarthy Temple and vanished. The temples at
Mannarsala, dedicated to the
3 Aranmula Aranmula is also known for its King of Snakes, Nagaraja, and
unique metal mirrors, made from his consort, Sarpayakshini, are
Pathanamthitta district. 125 km an alloy of silver, bronze copper
(78 miles) NW of Thiruvananthapuram. situated in a thick grove of
n (0468) 221 2170. @ 4 from and lead. These mirrors were tall trees and dense bushes,
Alappuzha. _ Onam Boat Regatta traditionally used as part of the surrounded by thousands
(Aug/Sep). arrangement of auspicious of hooded stone serpents
objects during Vishu, the Malayali of various styles and sizes.
This picturesque village on New Year, in April (see p633). In Kerala, the ancestral home
the banks of the Pampa river is (tharavad) of every upper-class
famous as the venue for Kerala’s Environs Namboothiri and Nair family is
magnificent snake boat races. The 14th-century Thiruva mundur supposed to have a sarpa-kavu,
The boat race festival has its Temple, near Cheng annur, 7 km or snake-grove, housing a
origins in the legend of a (4 miles) west of Aranmula nagakal or snake stone. If a
devotee who once gave is dedicated to Krishna tharavad cannot afford to
food to a Brahmin, and attributed to Nakul, maintain its own shrine, the
believed to be Vishnu one of the five Pandava snake stones are offered to
in disguise. However, brothers (see p30). Near this temple.
the Brahmin, before Chenganacherry, 27 km The holy rites at Mannarasala
disappearing, advised him (17 miles) to the northwest are conducted by a priestess
to send his offering to of Aranmula, is the (amma), a vestal virgin, who lives
Aranmula instead. Since Tirukkodittanam Temple. on the premises and is supported
then, during the festival, a This 11th-century temple is in her religious duties by
ceremonial boat, carved out of dedicated to Sahadev, Nakul’s her family.
a single block of wood, carries twin brother, and has lovely Childless couples place a
a consignment of food murals adorning its walls. bell metal vessel (uruli) face
from a nearby village to Metal mirror, It is a temple vibrant in down in front of the deities,
the temple at Aranmula. Aranmula traditional art and music. to seek their blessings.
On the last day of Onam
(see p633), this ceremonial boat
leads a procession of about 30 Sacred Serpent Shrines
snake boats to the temple. On In Kerala, the sacred serpent plays a significant role in belief and
this day, there is no racing, and ritual. Malayali folklore speaks of a wooded, rural land inhabited
all the boats arrive together, as mainly by Nagas (snakes) – the Lords of the Underworld – who
Krishna is said to be present were overthrown by the Brahmin settlers brought here by
on each boat at the same time. Parasurama (see p683), the sixth incarnation of Vishnu. This
The Parthasarathy Temple, mythological incident is the origin of snake worship in Kerala,
one of the state’s five most since, after their defeat,
important temples, is ded icated Parasurama ordered that
to Krishna, and has an image snakes be accorded divine
of the god as Partha sarathy, the status. Most temples thus
Divine Charioteer in the great have a niche for a snake
god, amid dense sacred
epic, the Maha bharata (see p30). groves of ancient trees.
The image was bro ught here on The old ancestral homes
a raft made of six bamboos, and (tharavads) also have
this is what the town’s name private temples or groves Sacred grove with snake (naga) images,
signifies – in Malayalam aaru for a snake deity. Mannarsala Temple
means six and mula, bamboo.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and pp718–19

636-637_EW_India.indd 636 26/04/17 11:49 am
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Date 12th July 2013
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