Page 634 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

632  SOUTH INDIA

Exploring Thiruvananthapuram’s
Environs

Thiruvananthapuram is the gateway to the southern tip
of India. South of the city, along the Lakshadweep Sea, are
many beach resorts, the most famous of which is Kovalam. The
Padmanabhapuram Palace (see pp634–5), the former residence
of the Travancore kings, is to the southeast, while to its north
and east are tranquil hill stations located picturesquely in the
densely forested Cardamom (Ponmudi) Hills. Thiruvananthapuram A young boy flaunts his catch,
also houses many important institutions, including the Kovalam Beach
meteorological station, which performs the task of plotting
the arrival of the Southwest Monsoon. The city is also one of swimming in the placid blue
waters, catamaran trips,
Kerala’s main centres of Ayurveda. and water sports.
L Varkala
Thiruvananthapuram district. 40 km
(25 miles) N of Thiruvananthapuram.
@ n Tourist Information Centre,
near the helipad (0471) 248 0085.
This beautiful little beach town
is better known among locals
as a major pilgrimage centre.
According to legend, the sage
Narada flung a cloth made from
the bark of a tree into the air,
Lighthouse Beach, one of the many idyllic beaches in Kovalam and it landed at the spot where
the small town of Varkala now
L Kovalam handicrafts and inexpensive stands. Narada then directed his
Thiruvananthapuram district.16 km beachwear. Despite the disciples to pray for salvation
(10 miles) S of Thiruvananthapuram. onslaughts of mass tourism, at the newly created beach,
@ n Tourism Office, (0471) Kovalam retains an inherent which came to be known as
248 0085. charm that makes it one of Papanasham Beach or the
Until the 1960s, Kovalam was India’s finest and most popular “Beach of Redemption”. Since
just a sleepy fishing village beach resorts. then, this beach has been
with narrow lanes and thatched Kovalam’s sheltered natural associated with ancestor
dwellings with wide courtyards bay is ringed by two rocky worship, as Hindus immerse
for drying fish. However, once headlands. Its three beaches – the ashes of their dead here.
its spectacular beach and Grove Beach, Eve’s Beach and At the heart of the town is
shallow, crystal-clear waters Lighthouse Beach, all within the sacred Janardhana Swamy
were discovered, it became short walking distance of Temple, believed to be more
a favourite with hippies and each other – provide visitors than 2,000 years old. This
backpackers, and over the years with their fill of sun, sea and temple, dedicated to Krishna,
acquired the reputation of sand. While the beaches to the attracts many pilgrims. One of
being a shabby, downmarket south of the promontory are the bells in the temple is said
resort. Today, however, it also more crowded, the ones to to have been given in gratitude
attracts the rich and famous, the north offer ample secluded by the captain of a 17th-century
who come here in private space for sunbathing, safe Dutch sailing ship, after his
planes. As a result, the prayers were answered.
beaches are dotted Varkala’s other
with both luxury and pilgrimage centre is
budget resorts, as well the hilltop Memorial
as cafés and several of Sree Narayana Guru
government-approved (1856–1928) at Sivagiri,
Ayurveda centres that 3 km (2 miles) east
offer anything from of the temple. Every day,
a simple massage countless devotees flock
to three-week to the memorial of this great
treatments. Hawkers, saint and social reformer,
too, have set up who advocated “one caste,
stalls selling Bananas and other fruit on sale, Varkala one religion, one god for
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p703 and pp718–19

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