Page 154 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide: Japan

152  JAP AN REGION B Y REGION

y Kanazawa

Kanazawa
A city with a strong cultural identity, Kanazawa was
historically shielded from outside influence by its location
between the mountains and the sea, and supported by an
ample rice yield. In 1583 the area, known as Kaga, passed Walled street in the Nagamachi Samurai
from an egalitarian government under the Ikko Buddhist sect quarter
to the firm rule of the Maeda lords; while much of Japan was
still unstable, Kaga had three cen turies of peace and became resist-dyeing process is used
the richest domain in the land. Wealth encouraged cultural to produce Kaga yuzen silk,
development, and artists from Kyoto came and developed popular for formal kimonos.
Most of the city’s museums
new, more vibrant styles with less restraint. When Japan are in the central area. The 21st
modernized, Kanazawa focused on culture; lack of industry Century Museum of Contemp-
meant it escaped bombing in World War II and retains its orary Art opened in 2004 to
heritage today. explore emerging new work
in visual arts, design, craft,
Exploring Central Kanazawa koto (stringed instrument). The fashion, architecture, and film,
Most of Kanazawa’s sights are exquisite two-story Seison kaku particularly in the areas of
located centrally. One-day bus Villa adjoining Kenroku- multiculturalism and
passes are available, and bicy- en was built in 1863 transporta tion,
cles can be rented at the station. by Maeda Nari yasu, technology, gender
Kenroku-en Garden is one of 13th lord, for his issues, and the nature
Japan’s “great three” gardens, mother. Its lower floor of identity. Museum
and is best seen un crowded has formal receiving of Traditional Arts
early or late in the day. rooms: walls are and Crafts has
Established in the mid-17th coated in gold dust, sections on more
century, it was opened to the and shoji paper The unusual gate to than 30 Kanazawa
public in 1874. Kenroku-en doors have rare the Oyama Shrine crafts, such as silk,
means “garden of six qualities” Dutch stained-glass ceramics, gold
(desirable in Chinese gardens): insets. Upstairs is more informal leaf, and folk toys. Two-day
spaciousness, seclusion, air of and colorful. The superb curved “passport” tickets give access
antiquity, ingenuity, flowing roof is made from sawara to this museum, the Museum
water, and views. cypress shingles. of Art (the Maedas’ collection),
At the edge of the lake is a Kanazawa Castle, one of and the Honda Museum
two-legged stone lantern (see the largest in feudal Japan, (Honda family possessions).
p35), known as Kotoji because it was almost entirely destroyed
is shaped like the bridge of a by fire in 1881; only the armory Y Kenroku-en Garden
and rear gate, Tel (076) 234-3800. Open daily. &
Ishikawa-mon, E Seisonkaku Villa
survived. A section Tel (076) 221-0580. Open Thu–
of the castle has Tue. &
been rebuilt and a
park created. The E Nomura House
nearby Oyama Tel (076) 221-3553. Open daily. &
Shrine is dedi cated E Nagamachi Kaga Yuzen Silk
to Maeda Toshiie. Center
The Nagamachi Tel (076) 264-2811. Open daily. &
Samurai Quarter P 21st Century Museum of
retains its Contemporary Art
earthenwalled Tel (076) 220-2800. Open Tue–Sun. &
streets. With its
quality wood work, E Museum of Traditional Arts
costly windowpanes, and Crafts
Tel (076) 262-2020. Open daily.
and serene garden, Closed Apr–Nov: 3rd Thu in month;
Nomura House Dec–Mar: Thu. &
gives an idea of
samurai life. In the P Museum of Art
Nagamachi Kaga Tel (076) 231-7580. Open daily. &
Yuzen Silk Center, P Honda Museum
a former samurai Tel (076) 261-0500. Open daily.
Spring in Kenroku-en Garden house, an 18-step Closed Nov–Feb: Thu. &
For hotels and restaurants see p303 and pp326–9

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