Page 203 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide: Japan

WESTERN HONSHU  201

3 Asuka Plain to view cherry blossom trees,
Asuka Plain as well as hot springs that are
present in the area.
Nara prefecture. £ Asuka. n (0744)
54-3624.
5 Iga-Ueno
The Asuka Plain is scattered
with excavation sites from the Iga-Ueno
proto-capital Asukakyo, which Mie prefecture. £ _ Ueno Tenjin
flourished in the 5th to 7th Matsuri (October 23–25). n 1st Floor,
centuries. The best way to Haito-Pia bldg, in front of Ueno-shi stn;
explore the burial tombs, (0595) 24-0270.
temples, and early Buddhist
statuary is by bicycle. A provincial castle town, Iga-
One of the best-known sites, Ueno was home to the Iga ninja,
Takamatsuzuka Kofun, is the most inventive and feared
similar in design to Korean spies of Japan’s feudal era, and
tombs of the same period and the birthplace of Japan’s most
contains vivid murals of stars Cherry trees blossoming at altitude revered haiku poet, Matsuo
and mythological animals. in Yoshino Basho (see p283). Several sites
Notable images elsewhere in town, including Basho’s
include Sakabune Ishi, a groves at different altitudes. house, a museum, and the
concentric stone that may Each level blooms in succes sion, odd Haeseiden, an octagonal
have been used to make sake, extending the viewing period to building said to replicate
Kame and Saru Ishi, turtle almost three weeks. Basho’s standing figure, are
and monkey-shaped statues, dedicated to the poet.
and Nimen Seki, a stone with Environs The main attraction for most
faces carved on each side. The Yoshinoyama area stretches people, though, is the extraor-
Asuka-dera was Japan’s first from the south banks of the Kii dinary Iga Ninja Museum, a
Buddhist temple. The Asuka- River to the north end of the clan farmhouse that served as
Daibutsu statues are influenced Omine mountain range. A the secret headquarters of the
by various East Asian cultures. UNESCO World Heritage site, Iga sect of professional spies
the region is dotted with many and assassins. The well-restored
temples, including Kinpu-Senji building retains hidden panels,
Temple, Kinpu Shrine, spy holes, secret escape routes,
Yoshimizu Shrine, and Yoshino and trapdoors intended to repel
Mikumari Shrine. There is also night attacks from enemy war-
a pilgrimage route across the lords and rival ninja groups. Ninja
mountains. Chikurin-in is a methods are enthusias tically
temple that is renowned for demonstrated by guides dressed
its stroll garden designed by in pink day-glo ninja outfits.
the tea master Sen no Rikyu
(see p173). Visitors can take P Iga Ninja Museum
advantage of the perfect vistas Tel (0595) 23-0311. Open daily. &
afforded by Mt Yoshino-yama ∑ iganinja.jp/en
The Ninja
Takamatsuzuka Kofun, a tomb site on the
Asuka Plain Ninjutsu, the “art of stealth,” was devel oped
during the bloody clan warfare of Japan’s
feudal era. The ninja elevated their profession
4 Yoshino of spying and assassin ation into a sophisticated
Yoshino discipline by practic ing mountain ascetism and
studying such subjects as astronomy, herbalism,
Nara prefecture. £ n (07463) medicine, and nutrition. They developed ingenious
2-3081. _ Setsubun-e (Feb 3); Sakura devi ces to outwit enemies, including lock picks,
Festival (Apr 11–12). collapsible floats for crossing water, clothing
designed to conceal swords and knives, and over
The attractive, elevated village of 30 different kinds of shuriken, which are deadly
Yoshino, its multistoried houses throwing stars made of metal.
built on graduated levels on the
side of a remote mountain, is
one of Japan’s most popular Local guide
cherry-blossom-viewing spots. demonstrating
The Yoshinoyama area boasts Ninja sword exhibit at Iga Ninja Museum ninja methods
100,000 trees planted in four

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