Page 302 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide: Japan

300  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Traditional Accommodations of waiting house slippers
(see p364). Then, before
A ryokan is a unique fusion of private and communal styles entering the guestroom,
of living. Such Japanese traditions as removing shoes at remove the house slippers and
the right point are important, no matter what the cost of the leave them outside the door.
room, and the most expensive of these traditional inns may Other ryokan allow shoes in the
building, but these are always
demand a high level of etiquette. A family-run minshuku taken off in the entranceway to
– a type of guesthouse – is an even more intimate way to your room.
experience the Japanese lifestyle. There are also options that
are ryokan at heart, but with Western-style touches such Typical Rooms
as private bathrooms.
Guestrooms are floored in
tatami mats (see p33). In one
corner of the room is an alcove,
called tokonoma, which may
contain a hanging scroll,
flowers, or other artifacts. The
tokonoma is to be respected:
no suitcases, ashtrays, or
drinks should be placed in it.
There will also be a low table
surrounded by cushions
(zabuton), or folding chairs.
On the table top will be a tray,
bearing a tea set and possibly
traditional sweets (wagashi).
Your futon mattress and
bedding will be stowed in
Traditional exterior of a guesthouse on Miyajima Island cupboards when you first enter
the room. These will usually be
What is a Ryokan?
where few restaurants are open laid out discreetly for you in the
A ryokan is a traditional inn, in the evening, but a constraint evening while you are out of
as likely to be found in a city elsewhere. Another possible the room.
area as a mountain hamlet. problem, mainly for elderly Ordinarily a room will be
Some are set in Edo-period tourists, is the Japanese further supplied with a TV
buildings – confections of tradition of living at floor level, and air conditioner and/or
wood, glass, bamboo, paper using legless chairs and beds. heater. There is usually a
screens, and tatami matting. Note that many ryokan telephone, although it may
Others have a more contem- impose a curfew around 11pm, not have an international
porary setting. Of the 80,000 so make special arrangements connection. You should also
ryokan scattered nationwide, about keys in advance if you find a small towel in a box or
most cater only to Japanese- plan to stay out late. basket, which you can take to
speaking tourists, but they the communal bathroom to
will usually welcome foreigners use as a washcloth. A personal
with limited language skills. Arriving at a Ryokan outdoor bath (rotenburo)
About 1,500 ryokan are Guests generally check in to counts as luxury. A screened-
registered as well-suited to a ryokan in the mid- to late off veranda, with Western-style
providing for foreign visitors. afternoon, to allow plenty of table and armchairs, is more
Certain important Japanese time for bathing and dinner. commonplace. There may be
customs apply: the biggest At larger ryokan, there may other Western-style touches.
difference and surprise for be a doorman to smooth
many foreigners is that bathing the way, but in smaller esta-
facilities are traditionally com- blishments, guests should
munal, not private. In many slide open the front door and
cases these baths are natural politely call “gomen kudasai”
hot-spring baths, or onsen to announce arrival.
(see pp346–7), and elaborate Do not step up into the
bathing procedures apply. lobby proper until the
Most ryokan place emphasis okamisan (female owner or
on the quality of their meals, manager) appears. In more
and the room price typically traditional ryokan this is the
includes breakfast and dinner. signal to remove outdoor Room with tatami mats, low table, and
This can be ideal in quiet towns shoes and step up into a pair zabuton (floor cushion)

300-301_EW_Japan.indd 300 08/08/16 3:09 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.8)
Date 15th May 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm