Page 130 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Scotland
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128      SC O TLAND  REGION  B Y  REGION                                                                 CENTR AL  SC O TLAND      129

                                               e Falkland Palace              estate and gave it to the people   Culross pros pered in the
                                                                              of Dunfermline. Carnegie emi­  16th century due to the
                                               Falkland, Fife. Tel (01337 857397).
                                               3 Ladybank, then bus. Open Mar–  grat ed to Pennsylvania in his   growth of its coal and salt
                                               Oct: 11am–5pm Mon–Sat, noon–5pm    teens and through iron and steel,  industries, most notably
                                               Sun (until 4pm Nov–Feb). & 7 «   became one of the wealthiest   under the genius of Sir
                                               ∑ nts.org.uk                   men in the world. He donated   George Bruce. Descend­
                                                                              some $350 million for the benefit  ed from the family of
                                               This stunning Renaissance      of mankind. Carnegie Birth­  Robert the Bruce, Sir
                                               palace was designed as a hunt-  place Museum tells his story.  George took charge of
                                               ing lodge for the Stuart kings.                    the colliery in 1575 and
                                               Although its construc tion was   5 Abbey Church    created a drainage sys­
                                               begun by James IV in 1500, most   Tel (01383) 724586. Open Apr–Oct:   tem called the “Egyptian
                                               of the work was carried out by   daily (Sun pm only). =   Wheel” which cleared a
                                               his son, James V, in the 1530s.   E Carnegie Birthplace Museum  mine 1.5 km (1 mile) long,
                                               Under the influence of his two   Moodie St. Tel (01383) 724302. Open   running underneath the   The 16th-century palace of industrialist George Bruce,
       The central courtyard of Falkland Palace, bordered by rose bushes  French wives, he employed   Mar–Nov: daily (Sun pm only). 7    River Forth.  at Culross
                                               French workmen to redeco rate   ∑ carnegiebirthplace.com    The National Trust for
       w East Neuk         cobbled lanes and colourful   the façade of the East Range             Scotland began restoring the   y Antonine Wall
                           cottages of Crail; legend goes   with dormers, buttresses and          town in 1932 and now provides
       Fife. 3 Leuchars. @ Glenrothes &                                                                               Falkirk. n Falkirk Wheel, Lime Rd,
       Leuchars. n St Andrews (01334)   that the stone by the church   medallions, and to build the   a guided tour. This starts at the   (01324) 620244. 3 Falkirk.
       472021. ∑ eastneukwide.co.uk  gate was hurled across to the   beautifully propor tioned South   Visitor Centre, housed in the   Open Mon–Sat.
                           mainland from the Isle of May   Range. The palace fell into ruin       one­time village prison.
       A string of pretty fishing villages   by the Devil.  during the years of the Common-         Built in 1577, Bruce’s palace   The Romans invaded Scotland
       peppers the shoreline of the     A number of 16th- to 19th-   wealth and was occupied briefly   has the crow­stepped gables,   for a second time around
       East Neuk (the eastern “corner”)   century buildings in the village   by Rob Roy (see p123) in 1715.  decor at ed windows and red   AD 140, in the reign of Emperor
       of Fife, stretching from Earlsferry   of Anstruther contain the     After buying the estates in   pantiles typical of the period. The   Antonius and built a 60­km
       to Fife Ness. Much of Scotland’s   Scottish Fisheries Museum,   1887, the third Marquess of Bute   interior retains its original painted   (37­mile) earth rampart across
       medieval trade with Europe   which tells the area’s history   became the Palace Kee per and   ceilings, among the finest in   Central Scotland from the Firth
       passed through these ports,    with the aid of cottage interiors,   subsequently restored the build-  Scotland. Crossing the square   of Clyde to the Firth of Forth.
       a connection reflected in the   boats and displays on whaling.   ing. The richly pan elled interiors   past 1577’s Oldest House, head   The rampart was fur ther
       Flemish-inspired crow-stepped   From the village you can go to   are filled with superb furniture   for the Town House to the west.   defended by ditches and forts
       gables of many of the cottages.   the nature reserve on the Isle of   and contem porary portraits of   Behind it, a cobbled street known  at strategic points. One of the
       Although the herring industry   May, which teems with seabirds   the Stuart monarchs. The royal   as the Back Causeway leads to   best­preserved sections of the
       has declined and the area is   and a colony of grey seals. The   tennis court, built in 1539 for King   The 12th-century Norman nave of   the tur reted Study, built in 1610   fortifications can be seen at
       now a peaceful holiday centre,   statue of Alexander Selkirk in   James V, is the oldest in Britain.  Dunfermline Abbey Church  as a house for the Bishop of Dun­  Rough Castle, west of Falkirk.
       the sea still dominates village   Lower Largo recalls the local                            blane. The main room is open to
       life. The harbour is the heart    boy whose seafaring adven tures                          visitors and should be seen for its
       of St Monans, a charming town   inspired Daniel Defoe’s novel   r Dunfermline   t Culross   Norwegian ceiling. Continuing   u Falkirk Wheel
       of narrow twisting streets, while   Robinson Crusoe (1719). After   Fife. * 50,500. 3 @ n 1 High St   Fife. * 400. 3 Dunfermline.    north to the ruined abbey, fine   Lime Rd, Tamfourhill, Falkirk. Tel (08700)
       Pittenweem is the base for the   disagreeing with his captain,    (01383) 720999.  @ Dunfermline. n (01383) 720999   church and Abbey House, don’t   500208. 3 Falkirk. Open 10am–
       East Neuk fishing fleet.  he was put ashore on an                      (Palace: 880359). « ∑ nts.org.uk  miss the Dutch­gabled House   5:30pm daily. & for boat trip. - =
         The town is also known for    un inhabited island where    Scotland’s capital until 1603,   with the Evil Eyes.  ∑ scottishcanals.co.uk
       St Fillan’s Cave, the retreat of    he survived for four years.  Dunfermline is dominated by the   An important religious centre
       a 9th-century hermit whose              ruins of the 12th-century abbey   in the 6th century, the town of   P Palace, Town House and Study  This impressive, elegant boat lift
       relic was used to bless the army   E Scottish Fisheries Museum  and palace, which recall its royal   Culross is reputed to have been   Open Apr, May, Sep: 11am–5pm Sat–  is the first ever to revolve and
       of Robert the Bruce before the   St Ayles, Harbour Head, Anstruther.    past. The town first came to    the birthplace of St Mungo in 514.   Mon; Jun–Aug: 11–5pm daily (Jun:   the centrepiece of Scotland’s
       Battle of Bannockburn (see p47).   Tel (01333) 310628. Open daily. & 8   pro minence in the 11th century   Now a beauti fully preserved    Wed–Mon); Oct: 11am–4pm Sat–Mon.   ambitious canal regeneration
       A church stands among the   7 - = ∑ scotfishmuseum.org  as the seat of King Malcolm III,   16th­ and 17th­century village,   & 7 limited. = «  scheme. Once important for
                                               who foun ded a priory on the                                           commercial trans port, the Union
                                               present site of the Abbey                                              and the Forth and Clyde canals
        The Palace Keeper                      Church. With its Norman nave                                           were blocked by numerous
        Due to the size of the royal           and 19th-century choir, the                                            roads during the 1960s. Now
        household and the necessity for        abbey church contains the tombs                                        the Falkirk Wheel gently swings
        the king to be itinerant, the office   of 22 Scottish kings and queens,                                       boats between the two water­
        of Keeper was created by the           including that of the renowned                                         ways creating an uninterrupted
        medieval kings who required            Robert the Bruce. The ruins of the                                     link between Glasgow and
        custodians to maintain and             palace soar over the gardens of                                        Edinburgh. This huge, moving
        replenish the resources of their       Pittencrieff Park. Dunfermline’s                                       sculpture rotates continuously,
        many palaces while they were           most famous son, the philan-                                           lifting boats 35m, a height
        away. Now redundant, it was            thropist Andrew Carnegie (1835–                                        equivalent to 11 traditional
        a hereditary title and gave the        1919), had been forbid den                                             locks, in just 15 minutes. Visitors
        custodian permanent and often   James VI’s bed in the Keeper’s Bedroom   en trance to the park as a boy.      can ride the wheel on one of
        luxurious lodgings.  at Falkland Palace  After making his fortune, he                                         the boats that leave the Visitor
                                               bought the entire Pitten crieff   The rotating Falkirk Wheel boat lift  Centre every 40 minutes.
       For hotels and restaurants see pp175–6 and pp186–7


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