Page 68 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Scotland

66  SC O TLAND REGION B Y REGION EDINBURGH  67

Greyfriars Kirk. In the cobbles Walker Skating on Duddingston 7 Scott Monument
on the pavement outside the Loch, thought to date from Princes Street Gardens East. Tel (0131)
west door of the cathedral is the beginning of the 19th 529 4068. Open Apr–Sep: 10am–7pm
a heart shape known as the century. The minister was daily; Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm Mon–Sun.
Heart of Midlothian. It marks believed to be a member of & ∑ edinburghmuseums.org.uk
the site of the old law courts the Edinburgh Skating Club.
and place of execution. It was The collection also includes Sir Walter Scott (1771–1832)
here that the bodysnatcher Sir David Wilkie’s Pitlessie Fair, is one of the most important
William Burke was hanged. a painting of the annual May figures in Scottish literature
He and his accomplice William fair in Pitlessie village created (see p92). Born in Edinburgh,
Hare murdered people to in 1804, when the artist was Scott initially pursued a legal
supply corpses to the univer- only in his teens. career but he soon turned to
sity’s anatomy department, The collection of early writing full time as his ballads
which purchased the bodies. German pieces contains Gerard and historical novels began
Sir Walter Scott’s novel The David’s almost comic-strip to bring him success. His
Heart of Midlothian was treatment of the Three Legends works looked back to a time of
The Standard Life building, at the heart of the city’s financial centre inspired by the history of of St Nicholas, from around the ad venture, honour and chivalry,
this part of town. beginning of the 16th century. and did much to promote this
3 The Exchange marking the Protestant stand Works by Raphael (such as his image of Scotland abroad.
against the imposition of an tender Bridgewater Madonna), In addition to being a cele- The imposing Gothic heights of the Scott
Lothian Rd, West Approach Rd and episcopal church by King 5 National Museum Titian and Tintoretto brated novelist, Sir Walter was Monument on Princes Street
Morrison St.
Charles I. Greyfriars was then of Scotland accompany other southern also a major public figure – he
The Exchange, once an unsightly a relatively new structure, European paintings, including organized the visit of King 8 Scottish National
area, was re juvenated when having been completed See pp68–9. Velazquez’s An Old Woman George IV to Edinburgh in Portrait Gallery
Festival Square and the Sheraton in 1620 on the site of a Cooking Eggs, from 1620. The 1822. After Scott’s death
Grand Hotel were built in 1985. Franciscan friary. 6 Scottish National artist created the work when in 1832, the Monument 1 Queen St. Tel (0131) 624 6200.
Three years later the local All throughout the 17th he was only 18 or 19 years old. was con structed on the Open 10am–5pm daily (to 7pm Thu).
authority published a plan to century, during years of Gallery Leonardo da Vinci’s genius is south side of Princes 7 - ∑ nationalgalleries.org
promote the area as a financial bloodshed and religious The Mound. Tel (0131) 624 6200. represented by his Street as a tribute to his
centre. In 1991 investment persecution, the kirkyard was Open 10am–5pm daily (to 7pm Thu). drawing Studies of a life and work. This Gothic An exhibition on the 12 gene-
management firm Baillie Gifford used as a mass grave for 7 0 - = Dog’s Paw, while tower was designed by rations of the Royal House of
opened Rutland Court on West executed Covenanters. The ∑ nationalgalleries.org Botticelli’s George Meikle Kemp and Stuart, from the time of Robert
Approach Road. kirk also served as a prison for vibrant The reaches a height of 61 m the Bruce to Queen Anne, is
The ambitious Edinburgh Covenanter forces captured One of Scotland’s finest art Virgin Adoring (200 ft). It was com- a highlight here. Memorabilia
International Conference after the 1679 Battle of galleries, the Scottish National the Sleeping pleted in 1840, and include Mary, Queen of Scots’
Centre, on Morrison Street, was Bothwell Brig. The Martyrs’ Gallery is worth visiting for its Christ Child is includes a statue jewellery and a silver travelling
designed by Terry Farrell and Monument is a sobering 15th- to 19th-century British unusual in that of Sir Walter at its canteen left by Bonnie Prince
opened in 1995. Standard Life reminder of those times. The and European paintings alone, it was painted Rev Robert Walker Skating on base, sculpted by Sir Charlie (see p157) at the Battle of
opened a head quarters on original kirk building was though plenty more can be on canvas rather Duddingston Loch John Steell. Inside Culloden. The upper gallery has
Lothian Road in 1997, and in severely damaged by fire in found to delight art lovers. than wood. the huge structure, a num ber of portraits of famous
1998, Scottish Widows opened 1845 and substantially rebuilt. Some of the highlights There is an entire room 287 steps give access to the top- Scots, including a picture of
a bold building. Greyfriars is best known for its among the Scottish works de voted to The Seven Sacra­ most platform. The rewards for Robert Burns.
The Exchange has grown into association with a dog, Bobby, exhibited are the society ments by Nicholas Poussin, those who climb up are great The museum was completely
a trendy area, with restau rants, who kept a vigil by his master’s portraits by Allan Ramsay and dating from around 1640 and views around the city centre refurbished in 2011, in order to
shops and the famous Filmhouse grave from 1858 to 1872. Sir Henry Raeburn, including presented to the gallery by the and across the Forth to Fife. display more of the collection.
Cinema on Lothian Road Bobby’s statue stands outside the latter’s Reverend Robert Duke of Sutherland. Flemish
(www.filmhousecinema.com). painters are well represented,
with Rembrandt’s affecting Self­
n Edinburgh International Portrait Aged 51 and works by
Conference Centre Van Dyck and Rubens. Among
Tel (0131) 300 3000. 7 ∑ eicc.co.uk the English offerings are Sir
Joshua Reynolds’s painting of
The Ladies Waldegrave, which
4 Greyfriars Kirk depicts the three daughters
of the 2nd Earl Waldegrave
Greyfriars Place. Tel (0131) 226 5429. doing needlework, and
Open Apr–Oct: 10:30am–4:30pm
Mon–Fri, 11am–2pm Sat; Nov–Mar: Gainsborough’s The Honourable
1:30–3:30pm Thu. 7 8 = Mrs Graham (1757–1792), a full-
∑ greyfriarskirk.com length portrait in the tradition
of Van Dyck. Works by the
Greyfriars Kirk occupies a key Impressionists include Monet’s
role in the history of Scotland, Boats in a Harbour, probably
as this is where the National painted in Le Havre in 1873, and
Covenant was signed in 1638, A tribute monument to Greyfriars Bobby, outside the pub that also bears his name Degas’s A Group of Dancers. Van Dyck’s Princess Elizabeth and Princess Anne, National Portrait Gallery
For hotels and restaurants see pp172–3 and pp181–3

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