Page 74 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Scotland
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72      SC O TLAND  REGION  B Y  REGION                                                                           EDINBURGH      73


                                                                              the murder of her trusted Italian   e Scottish   been extinct for 350 million
                                                                              secretary, David Rizzio, author­  Parliament   years. The area has been a royal
                                                                              ized by her jealous hus band,           hunting ground since at least
                                                                              Lord Darnley. She was six   Holyrood. Tel 0131 348 5200.    the time of King David I, who
                                                                              months pregnant when she   Open 10am–5pm Mon, Fri & Sat,   died in 1153, and a royal park
                                                                              witnessed the murder, during   9am–6:30pm Tue–Thu. 8 7   since the 16th century.
                                                                                                  ∑ parliament.scot
                                                                              which Rizzio’s body was pierced           The name Holyrood, which
                                                                              “with fifty­six wounds”.  Following decades of Scottish   means “holy cross”, comes from
                                                                                In the early stages of    calls for more political    an episode in the life of David I
                                                                              the Jacobite uprising of    self­determination, a 1997   when, in 1128, he was knocked
                                                                              1745 (see p49), the last    referendum on the   from his horse by a stag while
                                                                              of the pretenders to      issue of whether or   out hunting. Legend has it that
                                                                              the British throne,       not to have a Scottish   a cross appeared miraculously
                                                                              Charles Edward            Parliament, with   in his hands to ward off the
                                                                              Stuart (Bonnie Prince     some powers   animal and, in thanksgiving, the
                                                                              Charlie) held court       devolved from the    king founded the Abbey of the
                                                                              at Holyroodhouse,         UK Parliament in   Holy Cross, Holyrood Abbey. The
                                                                              dazzling Edinburgh        London, resulted in    name Arthur’s Seat is probably
                                                                              society with his          a majority “yes” vote   a corruption of Archer’s Seat, a
       A view from Edinburgh Castle across the towers and spires of the city to Calton Hill in the distance  magnificent parties.  (see p51). Designed   more prosaic explanation for
                                                                                Tours of the State      by the late Enric   the name than any link with
       0 Calton Hill       victory at Trafalgar was com-  of a Scottish missionary who    and Historic apart­  Miralles, known for   the legendary King Arthur.
                           pleted, in 1816. Named the   died there.           ments are given           his work on build ings     The park has three small
       City centre east, via Waterloo Pl.
                           Nelson Monument, the tower      The final resting place of   throughout the day   James V’s arms,   at the 1992 Barcelona   lochs. St Margaret’s near the
       Calton Hill, at the east end    is designed to resemble a tele-  Thomas Hamilton is the Old   from April to October   Holyroodhouse  Olympics, the   Palace is the most romantic,
       of Princes Street, has one of   scope standing on its end. It   Calton Cemetery, south of   or take an audio tour;   Parliament building   with its resident swans and
       Edinburgh’s most memor able   provides a fine van tage point   Waterloo Place, which he    both are included in the price of   was opened in October 2004   position under the ruins of
       and baffling landmarks – a half-  from which to admire the    shares with philosopher David   your ticket. The Queen’s Gallery   by Queen Elizabeth II. It’s well   St Anthony’s Chapel. Dunsapie
       finished Parthenon. Conceived   views of Edinburgh and    Hume and other celebrated   displays changing exhibitions   worth taking one of the regular   Loch is the highest, sitting 112 m
       as the National Monument    the surrounding area.  Edinburgh residents.   from the Royal Collection.  tours of this architecturally   (367 ft) above sea level under
       to the dead of the Napoleonic     The Classical theme contin ues                           exciting public building.  Arthur’s Seat. Duddingston
       Wars, building began in 1822   on top of Calton Hill with the   P Nelson Monument  w Our Dynamic               Loch, on the south side of the
       but funds ran out and it was   old City Observatory, designed   Tel (0131) 556 2716. Open Apr–Sep:   r Holyrood Park   park, is home to a large number
       never finished. Public shame   by William Playfair in 1818 and   10am–7pm Mon–Sat, noon–5pm Sun;   Earth       of wildfowl.
       over its condition has given    based on Athens’ Tower of the   Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm Mon–Sat &   Holyrood Rd. Tel (0131) 550 7800.   and Arthur’s Seat     The Salisbury Crags are
       way to affection, as attitudes   Winds. At present it is closed to   ∑ edinburghmuseums.org.uk  Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5:30pm daily   Main access via Holyrood Park Rd,   among the park’s most striking
       have softened over the last    the public, but it’s still worth a      (to 6pm Jul & Aug); Nov–Mar: 10am–   Holyrood Rd and Meadowbank   features. Their dramatic profile,
       170 years or so.    trip to see the impressive exterior.  q Palace of   5:30pm Wed–Sun. & 8 9 7 -   Terrace.   along with that of Arthur’s
         Fortunately, the nearby tower     Another Classical building, the    = ∑ dynamicearth.co.uk                  Seat, can be seen from many
       commemorating the British   Royal High School, was created   Holyroodhouse                 Holyrood Park, adjacent to the   kilometres away. The Crags
                                during the 1820s on    East end of the Royal Mile. Tel (0131)   Our dynamic earth is a   Palace of Holyrood house, covers   form a parabola of red cliffs
                                the Regent Road side    556 5100. Open 9:30am–6pm daily (to   permanent exhibition about    over 2.6 sq km (1 sq mile)    that sweep round and up from
                                of Calton Hill. It was   4:30pm Nov–Mar). & ^ in palace.   the planet. Visitors are taken    of varying terrain, topped by    the Palace of Holyroodhouse,
                                designed by Thomas   7 8 - ∑ royalcollection.org.uk  on a journey from the earth’s   a rugged 250­m (820­ft) hill.   above a steep supporting
                                Hamilton, with the                            volcanic beginnings to the first   Known as Arthur’s Seat, the    hillside. A rough track, called the
                                Temple of Theseus at   Known today as Queen Elizabeth   appearance of life. Further   hill is actually a volcano that has   Radical Road, follows their base.
                                Athens in mind. Often   II’s official Scot tish residence, the   displays concentrate on the
                                cited as a possible   Palace of Holyroodhouse was   world’s climatic zones and
                                home for a Scottish   built by James IV in the grounds   dramatic natural phenom ena
                                Parliament, the building   of an abbey in 1498. It was    such as tidal waves and
                                was the focus for    later the home of James V and    earthquakes. State­of­the­art
                                the Vigil for Scottish   his wife, Mary of Guise, and was   lighting and interactive tech­
                                Democracy, which   remodelled in the 1670s for   niques produce the special
                                campaigned from    Charles II. The Royal Apart ments   effects for 90 minutes of
                                1992 to 1997 for self   (including the Throne Room   learning and entertainment.
                                government. A discreet   and Royal Dining Room) are     The exhibition building is
                                cairn marking this effort   used for investitures and for   fronted by a 1,000­seat stone
                                stands a little way    banquets whenever the Queen   amphitheatre designed by
                                east of the National   visits the palace. A chamber in   Sir Michael Hopkins, and it
                                Monument on Calton   the so-called James V tower is   incorporates a translucent tented
                                Hill. The cairn contains   famously associated with the   roof. Situated beneath Salisbury
                                several “gift” stones,   unhappy reign of Mary, Queen of   Crags, the modern lines of Our
                                including one from   Scots (see p48). It was probably in   Dynamic Earth contrast sharply
       City Observatory, based on Classical Greek architecture  Auschwitz in memory    this room, in 1566, that Mary saw   with the natural landscape.  Arthur’s Seat and the Salisbury Crags, looming above the city
       For hotels and restaurants see pp172–3 and pp181–3


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