Page 183 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Vienna
P. 183

FUR THER  AFIELD      181


       their Austrian domain. The   Spitz to Aggsbachdorf
       Renaissance castle and Gothic   Spitz w is another pretty wine
       church were redeveloped in    town and was a Protestant
       the Baroque style around 1700.  stronghold during the
         At Weissenkirchen 6 the   Reformat ion. It lies at the
       church dates mainly from the 15th  foot of the 1,000-Eimer Berg
       and 16th centuries. The town    (1,000-Bucket Mountain), so
       is known for its wine, as are   called because it is claimed
       Joching 7 and Wösendorf 8.  that in a good year the vine-
                           clad hills can produce enough
                            wine to fill 1,000 buckets.   p The Benedictine abbey of Melk
                             Further on is a wall-like   dominates the river and town
                              rocky precipice jutting
                               out from the bank, the   (43-mile) River Pielach o,
                               Teufelsmauer or Devil’s   30 Bronze Age tombs and the
             R i v e r   D a n u b e  Wall e, which has   foundations of a Roman tower
                                given rise to a
                                               have been excavated.
                                 number of legends.
                                               is the Benedictine abbey of
                                At Schwallenbach r     The high point of the trip
                                the church was rebuilt   Melk p. The pretty town has
                                after the Bohemians   Renaissance houses, little
                               devastated the village    streets, old towers and the
                               in 1463. Although you   remnants of a city wall built
                              cannot see it from the   in the Middle Ages. The
                             boat, you will pass very   Baroque abbey, where
                             close to the village of   Umberto Eco’s novel The
                                 Willendorf t,   Name of the Rose begins and
                                 famous for the   ends, is a treasure trove of
                                 prehistoric findings   paintings, sculptures and
                                 made nearby,   decorative art. The great library
                                 including the statue   contains 2,000 volumes from
                                 Venus of Willendorf   the 9th to the 15th centuries
                                 (see pp22 and 130).  alone. The church has a
                                    Aggstein y has    magnificent organ and an
                                 a ruined castle high   odd display of skeletons
                                 above the river. Jörg   dressed in luxurious materials
                                 Scheck von Wald,   inside glass coffins.
                                 follower of Duke
                                 Albrecht I, rebuilt and   Tips for Independent
                                 enlarged the original
                                 castle in 1429. Legend   Travellers
                                 has it that he referred   Starting points: Krems,
                                 to a rock, placed at   Dürnstein, Melk or any river trip
       y The ruined castle above the river at   the highest point of   boarding point. River trip tickets
       Aggstein            the castle, as his rose garden.   are on sale at these points.
                           He would force his imprisoned   ∑ ddsg-blue-danube.at
       Churches and ruins  enemies to leap to their deaths   Getting there: Take the train
       Clearly visible on top of a hill, the   if the ransom he demanded   from Franz-Josefs-Bahnhof to
       fortified Church of St Michael 9   failed to arrive. Aggsbachdorf   Krems or Dürnstein. For Melk,
       was built between 1500 and 1523.   u was settled by the Romans in   depart from Westbahnhof.
       An unusual architectural detail is   the 2nd century and owned by   Stopping-off points: Dürnstein
       the stone hares on its tower. Local   the Kuenringer robber-barons   has restaurants and shops.
       folklore tells how so much snow   during the Middle Ages.  Melk Abbey Tel 02752 5550.
       fell here once that hares were able       Open Palm Sunday–1st Sun after
       to leap onto the roof.                    All Souls: 9am–4:30pm (May–Sep:
         On the same side of the river   Schönbühel Castle to Melk  9am–5:30pm). 8 in English:
       is a ruined arch on a hill, Das   The picturesque castle of   May–Oct 10:55am & 2:55pm.
       Rote Tor 0, a fragment of a   Schönbühel i stands on a   Cycling: A cycle path runs along
                                                 the Danube. Hire bikes at Krems,
       14th- century gate through   rocky outcrop overlooking    Melk, Spitz or Dürnstein train
       which Swedish soldiers walked   the Danube. Although early   stations (reduction with train
       on their way to Spitz in 1645   records date it to the 9th   ticket), or from river trip boarding
       during the Thirty Years’ War (see   century, its present form is early   points. Take your passport for
       p27). The town of Mitterarnsdorf   19th-century. Further on, at    identification. ∑ stiftmelk.at
       q has Roman remains.  the mouth of the 70-km long
                                                  For keys to symbols see back flap


   180-181_EW_Vienna.indd   181                             03/10/17   11:13 am
   178   179   180   181   182   183   184   185   186   187   188