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EASTERN  EST ONIA      125


       was the site of an Estonian   F R Kreutzwald (1803–82)
       stronghold until the 12th
       century. Adjacent to the church   One of Estonia’s best-loved writers, Friedrich
       is an old wooden school dating   Reinhold Kreutzwald is revered as one of
       from 1888 which has some   the most pivotal figures in the National
       beautiful wooden carvings and   Awakening of the 19th century. The
       sculptures on its exterior.   enormous body of literature created by
       Opposite the church is a monu-  him in the Estonian language still instils a
                            strong sense of identity and confidence
       ment honouring the Estonians   among patriotic Estonians. Despite being
       who lost their lives in the war of   impoverished, he studied medicine at Tartu
       indepen dence (1918–20).  University, where he developed a passion-
                            ate interest in national folklore. He wrote   Kreutzwald Memorial
                            many epics based on Estonian folklore, the   Monument in Võru
       p Suur Munamägi      most celebrated of which is Kalevipoeg
                            (Son of Kalev). Published between 1857 and 1859, it was part
       Road Map E2. Tel 786 7514. @ from   fiction, part influenced by existing folk stories.
       Võru. Open Apr–Aug: 10am–8pm
       daily; Sep–Oct: 10am–5pm daily;
       Nov–Mar: noon–3pm Sat & Sun. &   a Vastseliina
       - ∑ suurmunamagi.ee
                           Road Map E2. @ from Võru. * 620.
       Situated just south of the   ∑ vastseliina.ee
       village of Haanja, Suur
       Munamägi (Great Egg Hill)    The small town of Vastseliina is
       is the highest point in the   visited mainly for the 14th-
       Baltic States. At a mere 318 m   century castle located 4 km
       (1,043 ft) above sea level, it   (2 miles) east of it. The castle
       gives an idea of how flat the   was originally a border strong-
       Baltic region is. However, the   hold built by the Germans as a
       surrounding landscape of   defence against the Russians. It
       farmsteads, forests and hills    became the site of a miracle in
       is breathtaking enough to   1353, when a cross was seen
       merit a trip to the top of the   suspended in the middle of the   Well-preserved wooden house on Jüri
       hill. On clear days, it is possible   castle’s chapel altar. The incident   Street in Võru
       to see all the way to Russia    was reported by the Bishop of
       and Latvia.         Rīga to Pope Innocent VI and   s Võru
         At the peak, there is an   the castle sub sequently became   Road Map E2. * 14,000. @
       elegant observation tower   a place of pilgrimage. In 1702,   n Jüri 12, 782 1881. _ Võru Folklore
       which was built in 1939 and   the castle was completely   Festival (mid-Jul). ∑ voru.ee
       renovated to include the glass-  destroyed during the Northern
       fronted Suur Munamägi Tower   War (1700–21), but the ruins are   Situated in the centre of the
       Café (see p319) and a lift.   a vivid reminder of this once   southeast corner of Estonia,
       Delightfully quirky wooden   fiercely contested area.  Võru is a good base for explor-
       carvings, which peer down from    In Vana-Vastseliina, at the foot   ing the surrounding region.
       the trees, can be seen while   of the castle hill, Piiri Tavern –   The town is best known for its
       walk ing up the steep path to   first mentioned in 1695 – still   impressive 18th-century
       the top of the forested hill.  serves food.  wooden architecture.
                                                  Võru’s main sight is the
                                                Kreutzwald Memorial Museum,
                                                the former house of writer
                                                F R Kreutzwald, who had a
                                                medi cal practice in the town.
                                                The sandy shores of Lake
                                                Tamula almost reach the town
                                                centre and are perfect for walks.
                                                Environs
                                                Obinitsa, 30 km (19 miles) east
                                                of Võru, is the largest village of
                                                the Setu community.
                                                E Kreutzwald Memorial
                                                Museum
                                                Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm Wed–Sun;
       View from the observation tower, Suur Munamägi  Oct–Mar: 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. &




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