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LA T VIA  REGION  B Y  REGION      167

       WESTERN LATVIA


       Known for its dense forests and fertile plains, lively cities and
       sleepy rural towns, Western Latvia enchants visitors with its
       contrasts. The Kurzeme region is quiet and sparsely populated,
       with the major exceptions of the busy ports of Ventspils and
       Liepāja. Running along the Lithuanian border, the largely
       agricultural Zemgale region is dotted with castles and manor
       houses recalling past glories.

       Prior to the arrival of the German crusaders,  (r.1642–81). The Duchy was incorporated
       the heavily forested western region now   into the Russian Empire in 1795, and its
       called Kurzeme was dominated by the   fate was thereafter tied up with that of the
       Kurši tribe, while the Livs inhabited its   rest of what is now Latvia.
       northern coast. The fertile and well-    Today, most of Kurzeme retains its rural
       drained terrain running along the Lielupe   character, although the cities of Liepāja
       river in the south was home to the   and Ventspils are among the largest and
       Zemgaļi; together with an eastern region   most vibrant in the country. The few
       formerly called Selonia, this area is now   remaining speakers of the Liv language
       known as Zemgale. The Kurzeme tribes   continue their fishing traditions on the
       were defeated in 1267 and just over two   north ern coast. The area has several pictur-
       decades later the same fate befell the   esque small towns, including Kuldiga and
       Zemgaļi – the last of the Latvian tribes    Talsi. The Zemgale countryside consists
       to surrender.                 mainly of flat farmland, with exceptions
         When the Livonian Order collapsed in   such as forest parks in the hills around
       the 16th century its last master, Gotthard   Tērvete. Jelgava’s Old Town was
       Kettler, retained control of the entire   devastated during World War II, although
       region as a largely inde pendent fiefdom of  the duke’s palace is still standing. The most
       Poland. With Jelgava as its capital, the   popular tourist attraction, however, is
       Duchy of Courland and Semigallia reached  Rundāle Palace with its Baroque exterior
       its zenith under Duke Jakob Kettler   and restored Rococo interior.























       Bright yellow rape fields in full bloom, Kurzeme
         Tree-lined approach to the splendid Rundāle Palace



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