Page 263 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Estonia Latvia & Lithuania
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CENTR AL  LITHU ANIA      261


       Environs            then shot on the banks of    q Birštonas
       From Alytus, the Nemunas river   Lake Orija. The synagogue has
       sweeps towards Kaunas (see   been partially restored as a   Road Map D6. * 4,600. @ from
       pp262–5) around several huge,   national monument.  Vilnius, Kaunas. n B Sruogos 4, (319)
                                               65 740. _ Birštonas Festival (Jun),
       forest-covered bends. One of     The Church of the Blessed   Birštonas Jazz (Mar, alternate years).
       these bends can be viewed   Virgin Mary, with its statues    ∑ visitbirstonas.lt
       from an evocative fort-hill at the   of angels and kings on the
       far end of the quiet village of   pediments above the portico   The secluded spa town of
       Punia, located 15 km (9 miles)   and gate, was built in 1840.  Birštonas is quite different from
       north of Alytus.                        the bustling wellness centre of
                                               Druskininkai (see p259). Though
       E Museum of Local Lore  0 Marijampolė   open to paying guests as well
       Savanorių 6. Tel (315) 53 370.    Road Map C6. * 61,000.    as patients, Birštonas’s clinical
       Open 9am–6pm Tue–Fri, 9am–5pm   £ from Kaunas. @ from    sanitaria have remained
       Sat. & ∑ alytausmuziejus.lt             trapped in a bygone era.
                           Kaunas. n J Basanavičiaus 8,
                           (343) 31 020. ∑ marijampoletic.lt  Nonetheless, the well-ordered
                                               landscape planning and a
                           This town takes its name from   pleasant pedestrian boulevard
                           an 18th-century monastery   alongside the Nemunas river
                           built for the Marian Fathers, a   makes it a delightful town to
                           religious order founded in 1673.   explore. On the town’s eastern
                           The Church of St Michael   edge stands Vytautas Castle
                           became a part of the complex   Hill, the site of a hunting lodge
                           in 1824, but the monastery’s   of Grand Duke Vytautas. A large
                           activities were restricted   carved stone statue of Vytautas
                           after the 1831 uprising.   on horseback stands near the
                           The church was revived   fort-hill. Birštonas is
                           by Bishop Jurgis         dotted with wooden
                           Matulaitis (1871–1927),   houses, which date
                           whose remains are       from the mid-19th
                           marked by a tomb stone   century, when the reputa-
                           and sarco phagus. During   tion of the town’s mineral
       Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary    the Soviet occu pation in   waters and muds began
       in Kalvarija        1944, over 6,000 residents   to grow. A tiny yellow
                           were deported to Siberia.   building in the town
       9 Kalvarija         Anti-Soviet partisans    centre contains a tap
                           mounted a struggle, a   Vytautas’s statue,   with free access to the
       Road Map C6. * 12,000. £ from
       Kaunas.             story told at the Tauras   Birštonas  rich well of water
                           District Partisans and   below. The town
       Another Lithuanian town   Deportation Museum. A   attracts a lot of visitors during
       deeply haunted by the   cemetery on Varpio Street and a   Birštonas Jazz, Lithuania’s
       Holocaust, Kalvarija emerged   chapel on Tylioji Street remember   oldest jazz festival. Held once
       in the 17th century as a trad ing   the victims of the Soviet regime.  every two years, the three-day
       town on the Warsaw–St                   marathon fea tures a range of
       Petersburg road. Jews made   E Tauras District Partisans and   styles. Birštono Seklytėlė (see
       up a significant part of the   Deportation Museum  p328), a valley-top restaurant,
       population, some of them   Vytauto 29. Tel (370) 3435 0754.    has a grand view of the pine-
       wealthy merchants who   Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat. &  covered Nemunas.
       exported grain to Germany,
       but the majority were poor
       workers who manned several
       factories making brushes and
       medi cinal alcohol. Wooden
       synagogues were built and,
       in 1803, a stone synagogue
       complex was constructed,
       including a rabbi’s house and
       beit midrash (a place of study
       and prayer).
         In 1941, the Nazis and the
       Soviet army exterminated the
       entire Jewish population in
       town. Lithuanian and Jewish
       Communists were tortured,   The Nemunas river, seen from the promenade at Birštonas




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