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262      LITHU ANIA  REGION  B Y  REGION

       w Kaunas                                R Church of St George
                                               Papilio 7/9. Tel (37) 224 659. 5 6pm
       Lithuania’s second-largest city, Kaunas stands at the confluence   Mon–Fri, 10am Sat, 5pm Sun.
       of the Nemunas and Neris, the country’s biggest rivers. A series   Constructed for Bernardine friars
       of disasters hindered the city’s development, including   in the 15th century, this Gothic
       invasions by the Russians (1655), Swedes (1701) and Napoleon’s   church was destroyed twice
                                               by fire before its interior was
       Grand Army (1812). Rapid growth in the 19th century   restored in the Baroque style. The
       culminated in Kaunas becoming the temporary capital of newly   church was further damaged by
       independent Lithuania in 1919. Later, the city suffered under   the Russians in the 17th century
       Nazi and Soviet occupations. Today, Kaunas is a modern city   and in 1812 by Napoleon’s
       with a boulevard and a host of museums. The main historic   soldiers, who used it as a ware-
                                               house. It was finally returned to
       sights are located in its well-preserved Old Town.
                                               the Franciscans in 1993.
                                               T Kaunas Castle
                                               Pilies 17. Tel (37) 300 672. Open
                                               10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat.
                                               The ruins of Kaunas Castle
                                               are a reminder of the strategic
                                               importance of its location,
                                               between the two rivers, Neris and
                                               Nemunas. Little is known about
                                               what stood here before the first
                                               stone structure was erected in
                                               the 13th century. Crusaders
                                               damaged the castle in 1362.
                                               Soon after reconstruc tion, the
                                               Teutonic Knights were dealt their
       Bridge over the Nemunas river leading to the Old Town  decisive blow at the Battle of
                                               Grünwald (see p216) and the
       P Old Town Hall     fire station and theatre. Town   castle consequently fell into ruins.
       Rotušės aikštė.     Hall Square, where it stands, was   The structure was used as a
       Known locally as the “White   once a busy marketplace and   prison in the 18th century, but
       Swan” and resembling a church   the focal point of the Old Town.  was restored in the 1920s.
       with its single-tiered tower, the
       Old Town Hall has been a   R Church of the Holy Trinity  E Pharmacy Museum
       marriage registry office since   Rotušės aikštė 22. Tel (37) 323 734.    Rotušės 28. Tel (37) 201 569.
       the 1970s. It continues to be the   5 10am Sun.  Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. &
       photogenic back drop for   Built for a Bernardine convent in   A powder for epilepsy made
       newlyweds. Built in the mid-  the late 1620s, this church has   from the heads of corpses, a
       16th century, it housed   remained in good condi tion.    tincture of “Venus hair” to
       merchants, magis trates and the   Its blend of Renaissance and   improve one’s allure and a
       mayor, as well as a sub terranean   Gothic styles and pastel colours   19th-century herbal remedy
       prison. It has been used as an   brighten up the north western
       ammunition store, clubhouse,   corner of Town Hall Square. A   KLAIPĖDA,        Airport  VILNIUS,
                           redesign of the interior was   Ninth Fort                 10 km (6 miles)  RUMŠIŠKĖS
                           completed just before the   JURBARKO GATVĖ   JONAVOS GATVĖ
                           outbreak of World War II.  RAUDONDVARIS  Ž A L I O J I           G A T V Ė  Church of the  AUŠROS
                                                                        A  MACKEVIČIAUS  GATVĖ
                                           N eri s        ŠAUKLIQ GATV Ė          ŠV GERTRÙDOS GATVĖ                     SAVANORIQ         PROSPEKTAS          Devils  Resurrection  Ž E M A I Č I U   G A T V Ė
                                                                                       Museum
                                                 A  JAKŠTO  GATVĖ   JONAVOS  G   BEN E DIKTIN I Q   GATVĖ  M K Čiurlionis  V     P U T V I N S K I O     G AT V Ė
                                                                                Art Museum
                                                                                          Vytautas the Great
                                            Kaunas                                        War Museum
                                            Castle
                                                                               Philharmonic
                                Santakos  Church of PAPILIO  GATVĖ  Pharmacy M  VALANCIAUS   KUMELIU GATVĖ   M  DAUKŠOS    E OŽESESKIENĖ S                                      K  DONELAIČIO  GATVĖ
                                                                               Hall
                                Park           Museum                                       Laisvės
                                      St George            A  MAPU   St Gertrude’s          Avenue
                                         Church of the  Cathedral   Church      L A I S V Ė S       A L Ė J A
                                                     of Sts Peter
                                          Holy Trinity  Old   and Paul  GRUODŽIO      GATVĖ   City
                                                 Town Hall    BIRŠTONO       Garden        D A U K A N T O       G AT V Ė  NEPRIKLAUSOMYBĖS
                                                                                                      AIKŠTE
                                                                   SAMALININKU GATVĖ
                                                          ZAMENHO FO
                                       SANTAKOS  GATVĖ
                                             ROTUŠĖS AIKŠTĖ
                                           Perkūnas  J  NAUGARDO  V I L N I A U S   GATVĖ   K Ę S T U Č I O   G AT V Ė  A         M I C K E V I Č I A U S           G A T V Ė
                                            House  ALEKSOTO  Vytautas  Folk   PUODŽIU     GATVĖ  I KANTO GATVĖ  Mykolas Žilinskas
                                                                                                   Art Gallery
                                                           Music
                           0 metres    500  Nemunas   Church  Museum  K A R A L I A U S               M I N DA U G O         P R O S P E K TA S
                                                                                                      Bus Station
       Elegant Old Town Hall, locally called the    Zapyškis Church                                 450 m (500 yards)
                                                                                                     Railway Station
       “White Swan”        0 yards   500                                                            800 m (885 yards)  Pažaislis
                                                                                                              Monastery
       For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp305–306 and pp328–30
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