Page 77 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Estonia Latvia & Lithuania
P. 77

T ALLINN       75


       1684, the church was badly
       damaged in a fire that swept
       Toompea and had to be sub-
       stantially reconstructed. Today,
       the church remains at the very
       heart of Estonian Lutheranism.

       a Museum of
       Occupations
       Okupatsioonide muuseum
                           Exterior of the 19th-century Knights’ House, now a venue for concerts
       Toompea 8. Map 1 B3. Tel 668 0250.
       v 3, 4. Open 10am–6pm daily. &
       8 call in advance. 7 - =   which occasion ally hosted   and now houses a five-floor
                           concerts, is currently closed to   museum devoted to Tallinn’s
       ∑ okupatsioon.ee
                           the public.         history. The highlights include
       This comprehensive museum               medieval artillery and a
       provides a look at life in Estonia      plague doctor’s protective
       under both the Nazi and Soviet   d Kiek-in-de-Kök   uniform.
       occupations. The fascinating   Komandandi 2. Map 1 B3. Tel 644
       exhibits include examples    6686. v 3, 4. Open Mar–Oct:
       of bureaucratic paperwork,   10:30am– 6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Feb:   f Adamson-Eric
       gut-wrenching accounts    10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. & 8 call   Museum
       of mass deportation and   644 6686 for a guided group tour of   Lühike jalg 3. Map 1 C3. Tel 644 5838.
       execution, as well as posterart   secret tunnels under the bastion. =   v 3, 4. Open May–Sep: 11am–6pm
       propaganda, which was an   ∑ linnamuuseum.ee  Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr: 11am–6pm Wed–
       essential weapon for the                Sun. & 8 group tours of 10–35; call
       occupying forces.   One of the strongest cannon   in advance. ^ allowed only with out
         The open-space museum   towers in 16th-century   the flash. = ∑ adamson-eric.ee
       remembers the countless   Northern Europe, Kiek-in-de-
       victims of the occupations,    Kök was built in 1475 as   Located in a medieval house
       and its symbolic location    Toompea’s main bas tion.   on a narrow stairway con-
       at the foot of Toompea adds    The tower stands 38 m   necting the Old Town
       a certain poignancy. It was   (125 ft) tall and its   with Toompea, the
       partly founded by Kistler-Ritso,   walls are 4 m (13 ft)   Adamson-Eric
       an Estonian World War II   thick. The curious   Museum is a branch
       refugee to the United States.   Low German name   of the Art Museum
       He donated 2 million dollars    means “to peek into   of Estonia.
       to the museum, the largest   the kitchen”,     Adamson-Eric (1902–
       private donation in    suggesting that        68) is one of the key
       Estonian history.   soldiers had a good   Painted porcelain plate,   figures of 20th-century
                           vantage point over   Adamson-Eric Museum  Estonian art. His
                           the enemy. Some,          idiosyn cratic and
       s Knights’ House    however, believe that they   diverse body of work spanned
       Rüütelkonna hoone   literally peeked into people’s   several decades and influenced
                           kitchens. The tower fell into   countless artists after him.
       Kiriku plats 1. Map 1 B2. v 3, 4.
                           disuse in the mid-18th century     The Tartu-born artist was
       Built in 1848, the Knights’             primarily a painter, but also
       House originally served as a            worked with ceramics, metal
       meeting place for the knight-           forms, jewellery and leather,
       hood, an influential segment            among other media. Although
       of the Toompea gentry. It was           he held several prominent
       home to the Foreign Ministry            positions in various Soviet art
       during the first independent            committees during the latter part
       republic, which lasted from             of his life, he was thrown out of
       1920 to 1940. During Soviet             the Communist Party in 1949 and
       times, the building housed the          forced into fac tory work for four
       Estonian National Library.              years. After suffering a stroke in
         It temporarily accommodated           1955 and losing the use of his
       the main collection of the              right hand, he taught himself
       Art Museum of Estonia before            to paint using his left hand.
       it moved to its new permanent           The collection on display was
       home in the Kumu Art Museum   Bitter Death, a cannon replica displayed in   donated to the Art Museum of
       (see p80). The building,    Kiek-in-de-Kök  Estonia by the artist’s widow.
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