Page 221 - Vogue - India (January 2020)
P. 221

living












                                                                                                                                     SWAP
                                                                                                                                - Kale with local baby
                                                                                                                                   spinach for salads.
                                                                                                                              - Hass avocados with South


                                                                        Tara Deshpande                                          Indian butter fruit for dips.
                                                                                                                                - Over-the-counter French

                                                                        COOKBOOK AUTHOR                                            cheese for those from
                                                                                                                                         your local
                                                                        The challenge: To cook using ingredients                         fromagerie.
                                                                        from a local market

                                                                        When she isn’t testing recipes, you’ll fi nd   turning local ingredients into relatable
                                                                        Tara Deshpande, author of An Indian Sense    urban salads. “You cannot imagine the
                                                                        Of Salad: Eat Raw, Eat More (Penguin         reduction in carbon footprint when you
                                                                        India), gorging on the fresh, local produce   cook locally,” she says. “And the best part
                                                                        at the Down to Earth Farmers Market in       about being a locavore is that you will only
                                                                        New York. In Mumbai, Colaba market           get what is seasonal. Ayurveda cannot
                                                                        is her pit stop. A thorough locavore,        emphasise enough on how good that is
                                                                        Deshpande, who has two cookbooks             for you,” she adds. To create her fresh
                                                                        to her name, dedicated her latest tome       winter vegetable salad, Deshpande picks
                                                                        to celebrating salads loaded with Indian     Indian greens like baby spinach, bathua
                                                                        produce. From charoli seeds that fi nd        and  sarson with white radish to create
                                                                        ample usage in western India and banana      a bowl fl avoured with cumin seeds and
                                                                        blossoms from the east, to fi ddlehead        dressed with a drizzle of ghee, instead of
                                                                        ferns from the north-east, her craft lies in   olive oil.

















                     Deepanker Khosla



                     CHEF AND FOUNDER, HAOMA

                     The challenge: To cook a dish
                     using every part of a vegetable

                     Stems and stalks are fed to the farm
                     chickens, peels and seeds are turned into
                     fi sh food, fi sh scales and animal skins
                     are fed to the fi eld worms. At Bangkok’s
                     Haoma, chef Deepanker Khosla is
                     responsible for recycling 100 per cent of its
                     solid waste while endorsing green practices
                     like rainwater harvesting. Credited as being
                     one of the most sustainable restaurants in                                                                TRASH
                     the world, its ‘neo Indian’ menu relies on 40   in the orchard. For Vogue, Khosla uses           - Bake beetroot, potato and
                     varieties of plants, fl owers and vegetables
                                                                                                                           TOTABLE
             TINKESH A; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM  the zero-mile dish, Haoma In A Bite. It   skin is brined and fried into chips, the bitter   - T oast pumpkin and gourd seeds
                     grown in its backyard. Take for example
                                                                  every part of the local Indian gourd. “The
                                                                                                                    carrot peels with a pinch of pink
                                                                  corners are turned into a gel, the fl esh
                     features layers of mizuna from the garden,
                                                                                                                         salt for a quick snack.
                                                                  is marinated in kebab spice and grilled,
                     topped with a chlorophyll gel made using
                     17 kinds of home-grown herbs and a crisp
                                                                  the seeds are pu  ed like makhana and
                                                                                                                      and crush them over your
                                                                  the pulp is used to extract lauki oil,”
                     of kombucha tea SCOBY made from the
                                                                                                                          breakfast toast.
                     fallen leaves of the lemon and mango trees
                                                                  he shares. ■
                                                                                                                    - Add herb roots to stocks
                                                                                                                         and pesto sauce.
                                                                                                                    www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA JANUARY       219
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