Page 100 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal
P. 100

months. The bandstand was
                                                built in 1884 and originally
                                                stood on the Passeio Público,
                                                before the creation of Avenida
                                                da Liberdade (p82).
                                                  The English Cemetery to the
                                                north of the gardens is best
                                                known as the burial place of
                                                Henry Fielding (1707–54), the
      EXPERIENCE  Bairro Alto and Estrela       of 47. The Journal of a Voyage
                                                English novelist and playwright
                                                who died in Lisbon at the age
                                                to Lisbon, published post­
                                                humously in 1775, recounts
                                                his last voyage to Portugal
                                                made in a fruitless attempt
                                                to recover his failing health.


                                                12
                         The wrought­iron
                                                Basílica da Estrela
                         band stand at the centre
                         of Jardim da Estrela
                                                 J6   ⌂ Praça da Estrela
                                                § 213 960 915   @ 720, 738
                                                v 25, 28   # 9am–1pm,
                            Local families congregate
        11 -                here at weekends to feed     3–7:30pm Mon–Fri (to 8pm
        Jardim da Estrela   the ducks and carp in the    Sat & Sun); large groups by
                            lake, sit at the waterside café   appointment
         K6   ⌂ Praça da Estrela     or wander among the flower­  In the second half of the 18th
        @ 720, 738   v 25, 28
        # 7am–midnight daily  beds, plants and trees. The   century Maria I (p155), daugh ter
                            formal gardens are planted   of José I, vowed she would
        Laid out in the middle of    with herbaceous borders and   build a church if she bore a
        the 19th century, opposite    shrubs surroun ding plane   son and heir to the throne.
        the Basílica da Estrela, the   trees and elms. The central   Her wish was granted and
        pop ular gardens are a focal   feature of the park is a green   construction of the basilica
        part of the Estrela quarter.   wrought­iron bandstand,   began in 1779. Her son José,
        Picturesque and serene, they   deco rated with elegant   however, died of smallpox two
        provide an oasis from the   filigree, where musicians     years before the comple tion
        hustle and bustle of the city.   strike up in the summer   of the church in 1790.
                                                  The huge domed Basílica da
                                                Estrela, which is proudly set
          CONTEMPORARY                          on a hill overlooking the west
          PORTUGUESE CUISINE                    of the city, is one of Lisbon’s
          Exploding olives and                  most remarkable land marks.
          acorn ice cream are                   A simpler version of the
          some of the unusual                   basilica at Mafra (p156), this
          offerings now found                   church was built by archi tects
          at Lisbon’s innovative                from the Mafra School in late­
          new restaurants. Spear­               Baroque and Neo­Classical
          headed by the likes                   style. The façade is flanked by
          of José Avillez (right),              twin bell towers and deco­
          creator of Belcanto, the              rated with an array of statues
          first Lisbon restaurant               of saints and allegorical figures.
          to earn two Michelin                    The spacious awe­inspiring
          stars, contem porary                  interior, where light streams
          Portuguese dining                     down from the pierced dome,
          focuses on finding                    is clad in grey, pink and yellow
          unexpected, top­quality               marble. The elaborate Empire­
          local ingredients to lift             style tomb of Queen Maria I,
          traditional recipes into              who died in Brazil, lies in the
          something unforgettable.              right tran sept. Locked in a
                                                room nearby is Machado de
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