Page 162 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal
P. 162

EXPERIENCE  The Lisbon Coast










                            15
                            Península de Tróia     Did You Know?
              EAT           ! D5   @ g Tróia   n Tróia   Setúbal’s most famous
                            Resort; 265 499 400;
                            # Cetóbriga: Mar–Oct:   son is Manchester
           O Barbas Catedral  10am–1pm, 2:30–6pm Wed–  United manager
            This renowned   Sun (to 6:30pm Jun–Aug)  José Mourinho, born
           restaurant, which                         here in 1963.
          overlooks the breakers   Holiday apartments dominate
           of Caparica beach, is   the tip of the Tróia peninsula,
            usually packed at   easily acces sible from Setúbal
          weekends thanks to its   by ferry. The Atlantic coast,   ferry port, and a lively covered
          delicious seafood dishes.  stretching south for 18 km     market. North of the gardens
          ! D5   ⌂ Apoio de Praia   (11 miles) of untouched sandy   is the old town, with attractive
             13, Caparica     beaches, is now the haunt of   pedestrian streets and
              § 212 900 163  sun-seekers in the summer.  squares full of cafés.
                              Near Tróia, in the sheltered     The 16th-century cathedral,
              ¡¡¡
                            lagoon, the Roman town of   dedicated to Santa Maria
                            Cetóbriga was the site of a   da Graça, has glorious
              O Galeão      thriving fish-salting business.   18th-century tiled panels,
           Expect sparkling sea   The stone tanks and ruined   and gilded altar decoration.
          views from the terrace,   buildings are open to visit.   Street names commemorate
          great salads and fresh     Further on, Carrasqueira    two famous Setúbal residents:
          fish at this restaurant   is an old fishing community   Manuel Barbosa du Bocage
            above the water.   where you can still see tradi-  (1765–1805), whose satirical
           ! D5   ⌂ Portinho da   tional reed houses.   poetry landed him in prison,
          Arrábida   § 212 180 533              and Luísa Todi (1753–1833), a
              ¡¡¡                               celebrated opera singer.
                            y                     In Roman times, fish-salting
              Ribamar       Setúbal             was the most important indus-
            This upmarket                       try here. Rectangular stone
          restaurant is right on the   ! D5   £ @ g   n Casa da   tanks used for this process
                                                can still be seen on Travessa
          seafront, and has been   Baía, Avenue Luísa Todi
          serving tasty seafood   468; 265 545 010  Frei Gaspar.
          dishes for over 60 years.               To the north of the old
                            An important industrial town   town, the striking Igreja de
           ! D5   ⌂ Avenida dos   and the third-largest port in   Jesus (currently closed for
          Náufragos 29, Sesimbra     Portugal (after Lisbon and   restoration) is one of Setúbal’s
             ∑ ribamar.pt
                            Porto), Setúbal makes a good   treasures. Designed by the
              ¡¡¡           base from which to explore the  architect Diogo Boitac in 1494,
                            area. To the south of the central  the lofty interior is adorned
                            gardens and fountains are the   with twisted columns of
                            fishing har bour, marina and   pinkish Arrábida limestone,
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