Page 313 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal
P. 313

Salazar regime, General   Medieval walls of Sines,
       Delgado led an unsuccessful   the town where Vasco da
       uprising at Beja.     Gama (inset) was born
         Beja’s old town, an area of
       narrow, often cobbled, streets,
       stretches from the castle keep   popular sandy beach, but
       southeast to the 13th-century   it is not always possible to
       convent of São Francisco, now   escape the haze of pollution.
       a superb pousada. The former     A land mark above the
       Convento de Nossa Senhora   beach is the modest medieval   LOVE LETTERS OF
       da Conceição (now a regional   castle, restored in the 16th   A HEARTSICK NUN
       museum) is a remarkable   century by King Manuel. It was   Lettres Portugaises,
       blend of architectural styles,   here that Vasco da Gama, son   published in French in
       with a Gothic church portal,   of the alcaide-mor, or mayor, is   1669, are celebrated for
       Manueline windows and a   reputed to have been born in   their lyric beauty. They
       dazzling Baroque chapel.  1469. A multimedia museum   are the poignant letters
                           dedicated to the great navi-  of a nun whose French
                           gator, the Casa Vasco da   lover left her: she was
       23                  Gama, is housed in the castle   Mariana Alcoforado,
                           keep. A statue of Vasco da
       Sines               Gama looks out over the bay.  born in Beja in 1640; he
                                                 was the Comte de Saint-
                             Particulary appealing are   Léger, later Marquis de
       ! D6   @ g   n Inside the   two sea-blue lagoons, the   Chamilly, fighting in
       castle; 269 632 237
                           Lagoa de Santo André and   the Restoration Wars
       The birthplace of Vasco da   Lagoa de Melides nature   with Spain. The true
       Gama (p114) is now a major   reserves, set in a long stretch   authorship of the five
       industrial port and tanker   of sandy coast about 20 km   letters may be in doubt,
       terminal ringed with refinery   (12 miles) north of Sines.   but the story of the
       pipelines. Once past this   Camping within the reserves   lovelorn nun endures –
       heavy industrial zone, visitors   is prohibited and the area is   Matisse even painted
       reach the old town with its   patrolled by park rangers.  her imaginary portrait.
                                                 Sentimental visitors to
                           Casa Vasco da Gama    the Convento de Nossa
                           ⌂ Castelo de Sines   § 269 632   Senhora da Conceição
       Chapter room of the Convento   237   # 10am–1pm, 2–5pm   in Beja still sigh over
       de Nossa Senhora da   Tue–Sun (to 6pm in summer)     “Mariana’s window”.
       Conceição at Beja   ¢ Public hols
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