Page 324 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal
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4 "
        Igreja do Carmo         Pretty purple jacaranda
                                trees blooming in front
        ⌂ Largo do Carmo   § 289   of the whitewashed
        824 490   # 10am–1pm,       São Pedro church
        3–5:30pm Mon–Fri, 10am–
        1pm Sat             5
        The impressive façade of this
      EXPERIENCE Algarve  1755 Lisbon earthquake proved   ⌂ Largo de São Pedro
        church was begun in 1713. The  São Pedro
        disastrous for the construction,
                            § 289 805 473   # Mon–Sat
        and the structure that you see
                            The parish church of Faro is
        today, with its delicate twin
        bell towers, was designed by
                            dedicated to St Peter, patron
        Diogo Tavares (1711–1765)
        after the earthquake.
                            restored with Italianate
                            columns after the earthquake
        Although the exterior of the   saint of fishermen. Though
        church was not completed   of 1755, much of the original
        until 1878, the finishing   Baroque decor ation in the
        touches were made to the   tri-nave church has survived,
        lavish interior 150 years   including the main altarpiece,
        earlier. Inside, the decoration   dating from 1689.
        is Baroque run wild, with     Highlights include the
        every scroll and barley-sugar   chapel of the Santíssimo
        twist covered in precious   Sacramento, with a dazzling
        Brazilian gold leaf.  altarpiece (c 1745) featuring a
          In sombre contrast, the   bas-relief of the Last Supper,
        Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of   and a sculpture of St Anne
        Bones) has walls lined with   teaching the young Virgin
        skulls and large bones. It was   Mary to read. Be sure not
        built in 1816, using remains   to miss the altar of the
        from the friars’ cemetery.   Capela das Almas, which is
        Similarly to the chapel found   surrounded by stunning   EAT
        in Évora’s São Francisco (p298),   azulejos (c 1730) showing the
        it was designed to be a stark   Virgin and other saints pulling
        reminder of the transience of   souls out of purgatory. The   A Taska
        human life. Unlike the church,   church also has some lovely   The xarém (thick
        you must buy a ticket to visit   stained-glass windows, which   cornmeal soup with
        the chapel.         bathe the floor in light.  clams and bacon) is a
                                                  speciality at this rustic
                                                  restaurant. Look out for
                                                   the dish of the day or
                                                    the tasting menu.
                                                   ⌂ Rua do Alportel 38
                                                   § 969 441 381   ¢ Sun
                                                       ¡¡¡
                                                     Ria Formosa
                                                   This lounge bar and
                                                  restaurant on the roof
                                                  of the Hotel Faro offers
                                                  amazing views. It is the
                                                  best spot in the city for
                                                    Sunday brunch.
                                                  ⌂ Hotel Faro, Praça Dom
                                                    Francisco Gomes 2
                                                     ∑ hotelfaro.pt
                                                       ¡¡¡
          The macabre interior of the Capela
          dos Ossos in Igreja do Carmo
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