Page 99 - Holidays with Kids - Volume 62 (January 2020)
P. 99

02   03




           Australian soldiers in World War II with    someone pulls a football out of their   rushes beside it. Sitting on a bench next to the
           On Track Expeditions.               backpack. Within minutes, teams are formed:   river with my dad and sipping tea to warm up
             The track has a unique position in   the students against the porters (the local   after our swim is a moment I’ll cherish forever.
           Australia’s collective consciousness, as the   Papuans don’t celebrate birthdays, but the   Despite my exhaustion as the group and
           conflict was the first time Australian soldiers   youngest would have been around 14), while   our backpacks are weighed for our charter
           defended against a direct threat to their own   the dads sit with the older guides on the   flight from Kokoda village back to Port
           country. Walking along the track, our guides   sidelines. Try lines are marked by jumpers    Moresby, I can’t help feeling like we’ve both
           Adrian, an ex-history teacher, and Gary, who   and water bottles, and for nearly an hour in   accomplished something special. It’s not
           previously worked as the Australian War   the fading light, they play touch football. Back    every day that you get to conquer something
           Memorial’s assistant curator of military   and forth they run, drawing on previously   as monumental as Kokoda, let alone with
           technology and heraldry, point out signs of   undiscovered reserves of energy. Their shouts   a family member in tow. Will I be going back?
           the conflict: a Japanese helmet tucked behind   echo across the grassy hillside on which we   Maybe – I’ll need a week’s worth of sleep
           a tree; trenches and foxholes dug by both   camp, the last minutes of the game lit by    before I can think about that.
           Australian and Japanese soldiers just off the   a lone head torch on the sideline. I’m not
           side of the track; and, potentially seen for the   a footy fan by any stretch, but it was pretty
           first time since the war, a Japanese rifle that    clear – even to me – that this game was all
           a dad trips over as he walks back from a   about the home side.
           bathroom break. History is everywhere on    A couple of days – and a few falls – later
           the track and our knowledgable guides are   (my thanks to Gibson, my perpetually happy   Kokoda Report Card
           more than happy to share.           porter, for keeping me firmly on two feet most
                                               of the time), we make camp at Templeton’s
           Tea and try lines                   Crossing. This grassy clearing is surrounded   Info  papuanewguinea.travel
           On the third night, after we set up camp   by dense jungle on all sides, and Eora Creek,   kokodatrackauthority.org
           overlooking a plunging valley at Nauro village,   where this story’s introduction took place,   Do  ontrackexpeditions.net


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