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be delivered and freshly prepared in the mor-
ning. The rest is a story of devotion shared and
reinforced : shared by our incredibly loyal
guests and reinforced by the wide number of
dishes and by the range and variety.

robust flavour. The same delicate blends and

contrasts apply to fish and to side dishes. There

remains a tricky paradox – creating a light dish,

quite unlike the old days of rich food, more ten-

der and, when it comes to desserts, less sweet,

while still retaining the flavours. Jérôme

Manifacier and his team excel at this type of

Variety – that’s where it’s at. A keynote style is cooking, nostalgic on the one hand, and
the combining and contrasting of the same
ingredient, the same cut of meat, the same piece brilliantly modern on the other, and in between,
of fish in various interpretations all at once on
the same plate. A musician would call it “varia- totally original and creative. Proof of this, as if
tions on a theme”. Thus, a tender piece of goat
can be roasted, stuffed, poached and accompa- you needed it, is his recent 16/20 rating from
nied by sauces that are either delicate or some-
times intensified by reduction to create a strong, Gault and Millau.

Robert Sirdey

Le Vertig’O - Hotel de la Paix
Quai du Mont-Blanc 11 - 1211 Geneva
Tel : +41 (0)22 909 60 00

www.concorde-hotels.com/hoteldelapaix

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