Page 160 - sarah-simblet_sketch-book-for-the-artist
P. 160

COSTUME160                                                                     opposite, and both share the power of scarlet and black.
                                                                               Gruau uses starkly cut negative space (see pp. 5 8 - 5 9 ) and a
         Femmes Fatales                                                        three-spoke balance of cuffs and cropped trousers to create
                                                                               an almost flag-like emblem of power.
                 THESE DEVASTATING femmes fatales force back the onlooker
                 with their demure, elegant chic and svelte, muscular             Spider-Girl leaps like an insect, diving to catch us in the
                 aggression. Fashion and fantasy drawings invent prototypes    grip of her machine-like limbs. Fine lines drawn against
                 of ideals and perfection—be they for the catwalk or the       the building behind her echo the threads on which we have
                 fast-paced pages of comic books.                              all seen arachnids drop and hang. Airbrushed reflective
                                                                               surfaces further amplify our perception of speed.
                     Rene Gruau's bold gouache drawing of smoothly
                 swaying sophistication captures a brilliantly cut garment
                 and frames it with great dynamism in a white, studio-like
                 rectangle of paper. His model is outlined, as is Spider-Girl

                                                                               RENE GRUAU

                                                                               Italian-French fashion illustrator w h o in his long
                                                                               and esteemed career worked with many of the
                                                                               g r e a t e s t d e s i g n e r s o f 2 0 t h - c e n t u r y haute couture.
                                                                               Gruau's highly distinctive drawings have appeared
                                                                               i n n u m e r o u s m a g a z i n e s i n c l u d i n g Elle. Vogue.
                                                                               Harpers & Queen, a n d L'Officiel de la Couture.

                                                                               India ink and gouache This swish of confidence and style
                                                                               enters the page turning everyone's head. Gruau's model
                                                                               regally swans to the fore with cool pride, demanding our
                                                                               attention with gesture and flair. She has been drawn with
                                                                               brushes dipped into India ink and gouache, possibly over a
                                                                               pencil outline. The black red, and gray pigments were applied
                                                                               separately. Drying time in between applications ensured the
                                                                               colors did not run into each other.

                                                                                                               Composition Look how well this image is frame

                                                                                                               spacehorizontalline cropping the trousers be

                                                                                                               knee is parallel                              to the bottom edge

                                                                                                               outermostuprightbordersof her cuffs are similar

                                                                                                               thesidesoftheimage,and tilted to the same de

                                                                                                               above her head a little deeper than sp

                                                                                                               kneestogivehergravity. Compare the compositio

                                                                                                               ofcroppedtrousershere to the device of the w

                                                                                                               beneathVanDyke'sstudy of armor on p. 158.

                                                                               Illustration  for Jacques       Fath in

                                                                               L'Officiel de la C o u t u r e

                                                                               1949

                                                                               RENE GRUAU
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