Page 143 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2017 - Northern Spain
P. 143

THE  BASQUE  C OUNTR Y      141


       19th century, it was                    y Oñati
       occupied by the                         Guipúzcoa. Road Map B4. * 11,300.
       French and was the                      @ n San Juan Kale 14; 943 78 34 53.
       capital of Guipúzcoa                    _ San Miguel (29 Sep–4 Oct).
       province during the                     ∑ oinati.eu/turism
       Carlist Wars (see p45).
       Its renowned carnival                   A walk through old Oñati is a
       was held even during                    real treat for architecture
       the Franco era, and its                 enthusiasts. The Universidad
       November choral music                   de Sancti Spiritus – designed
       festival is one of the   Colourful houses along the river in Tolosa  by Picart and Gibaja – was the
       best in the country.                    first Basque university, funded
       Tolosa is also famous for    t Bergara   by Bishop Zuazola; it operated
       alubias de Tolosa – a red bean   Guipúzcoa. Road Map B4. * 14,900.   between 1551 and 1901. The
       grown around the town and   £ @ n Palacio Errekalde. Tel 943   Plateresque façade is adorned
       featured in hearty dishes.  76 90 03. _ San Martín de Aguirre   with four pilasters and several
          In the Old Town’s numerous   (16 Sep). ∑ bergaraturismo.net  figures referring to both
       narrow streets and squares,             mythological and religious
       there are examples of Basque   Bergara is one of the most   tradition. A superb courtyard
       Gothic and Baroque; one    characterful of Basque country   can be found within.
       such building is the imposing   towns, with an old centre full      The Monasterio de Bidaurreta,
       17th-century Gothic aisled   of distinguished colleges,   in turn, is a mix of Gothic,
       church of Santa María. The   churches and mansions built    Renaissance and Mudéjar. The
       church boasts cross-vaulting   for aristocrats during the town’s   interior contains aristocratic
       and a Baroque façade    Golden Age in the 16th and   family tombs and two altars
       designed by Martín de Carrera.   17th centuries. The first Carlist   – one Baroque, the other
       Under the choir is a late-  War ended here in 1839 (see   Plateresque in style.
       Romanesque portico.  p45) – the treaty was signed in     The Plaza de Santa Marina is
                           the 17th-century Casa Iritzar,   surrounded by Baroque palaces.
                           which features wrought-iron
       r Azpeitia          balconies and a coat of arms    P Universidad de Sancti Spiritus
                           at the corner of the building.  Unibertsitate Etorbidea 8. Tel 943 78 34
       Guipúzcoa. Road Map B4. * 14,700.       53. Open visits by appointment only;
       @ n Santuario de Loiola; 943 02 50     There are other fine build ings,   phone ahead to arrange. 8 & 7
       00. _ San Sebastián (19–20 Jan), San   such as the 16th-century Casa
       Ignacio (30 Jul), Santo Tomás (21 Dec).  Arostegi, which holds
                           exhibitions, and the Casa   Environs
       As many as 360 caseríos are   Jauregi (c.1500), which has   From Oñati, a mountain road
       preserved in the vicinity of   reliefs depicting plant motifs   ascends for 9 km (6 miles) to the
       Azpeitia. The town itself features   and figures of royal couples.  Santuario de Arantzazu, which
       many beautiful buildings, some     Basque Gothic is represented   lies in the valley at the foot of
       in the Mudéjar style; these   by the aisled church of Santa   Alona Hill. In 1469 it is believed
       include, for instance, the Casa   Marina de Oxirondo, built on    a shepherd saw a vision of the
       Altuna, the magnificent Casa   a square plan. Its tower is   Virgin here. This Modernist
       Anchieta – which once belonged  Baroque, as is the impressive   church, built to replace an earlier
       to a musician employed by    reredos by Miguel de Irazusta   one, was designed in the 1950s
       the Catholic Monarchs – and    and Luis Salvador Carmona.    by Javier Sáiz Oiza and Luis
       the 14th-century Magdalena   Also Baroque is the Iglesia    Laorga. It has a tall belfry, huge
       hermitage. Also well represented  de San Pedro de Ariznoa,    wooden altar, and doors designed
       is the Plateresque style, which    with its squat tower; inside is a   by the sculptor Eduardo Chillida.
       is evident on the windows of    canvas with shepherds paying   The Virgin of Arantzazu is the
       the Casa Plateresca and on the   homage to the infant Jesus.  province’s patron.
       portico of the church of San
       Sebastián de Soreasu, a Gothic
       structure whose tower was
       built by the Knights Templar.
         One of the town’s oldest
       buildings is the huge medieval
       Casa Torre de Enparan, now
       housing the municipal library.
       However, Azpeitia is most
       famous for its shrine to St
       Ignatius Loyola and other sites
       associated with the founder of
       the Jesuit order (see p142).  The Universidad de Sancti Spiritus in Oñati




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