Page 146 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2017 - Northern Spain
P. 146

144      NOR THERN  SP AIN  REGION  B Y  REGION

       i Vitoria-Gasteiz                        rulers swore to uphold the laws
                                                or be slain. The square – one of
       The inland city of Vitoria is the capital of the Basque Country   Vitoria’s oldest – was also
       and the seat of the Basque government. It was founded on    known as the Plazoleta del
       a hill – the highest point in the province of Álava and the site   Juicio (court square), because in
       of the ancient Basque town of Gasteiz. The city grew rich on   former times public executions
                                                would take place here.
       the iron and wool trades, and today it is brimming with life.
       Visitors come to see Vitoria’s beautiful architecture and
       extensive parkland, and to enjoy its excellent restaurants
       and tapas bars.
       Exploring Vitoria   Wellington defeated the French
       The more impressive historic   during the Peninsular War (see
       monuments are concentrated   p45). Beethoven wrote a special
       within the relatively small con-  concerto, Wellington’s Victory, to
       fines of the Old Town; several   commemorate this event. The
       Renaissance palaces and the   monument, crowned with the
       most important churches are   figure of an angel, is the work
       located here. A good way to   of Gabriel Borrás. Old houses
       end the day is to embark on a   with glazed balconies surround
       poteo – a whistle-stop tour of   the vibrant square, but the
       several tapas bars to sample    most important building is    A figure of the White Madonna in the
       the delicious local cuisine.  the Iglesia de San Miguel.  Iglesia de San Miguel
       P Plaza de la Virgen Blanca  R Iglesia de San Miguel  + Palacio de Escoríaza-
       On this large square, named   This late Gothic aisled church,   Esquivel
       after the White Madonna,   with Renaissance elements,    Fray Zacarías Martínez 7.
       patron saint of Vitoria, stands a   was built between the 14th    Closed to the public.
       monument to a battle fought    and 16th centuries. The high   Stone was used in the
       in 1813, when the Duke of   altar, by Gregorio Fernández,    con struction of this 16th-
                                is Baroque (1624–32).   century palace. The façade
                                The church is devoted   is Plateresque in style, with
                                to the cult of the White   chain-like ornamentation
                                Madonna, and a 14th-   running under the roof.
                                century statue of her
                                can be found in an   R Catedral de Santa María
                                outside niche.  (Catedral Vieja)
                                               Plaza Burulleria. Tel 945 25 51 35.
                                P Plaza del Machete  Open 10:30am–2pm, 5–8pm.
                                On the wall of the Iglesia   8 com pulsory. Reserve by phone or
                                de San Miguel facing the   online. & 7 ^
                                Plaza del Machete is a   ∑ catedralvitoria.com
                                recess that once held an   The 13th-century Gothic Catedral
       Plaza de la Virgen Blanca in the city centre  axe on which the city’s   de Santa María de Suso was once
                                               part of the city’s fortifications.
        The Autonomous Basque Government       Preserved on the second buttress
                                               arch from the northern end is a
        Since 1979, the Basque Country has enjoyed broad autonomy on    stone decorated with a rose-
        the basis of the so-called Statute of Gernika. It has its own parliament   like ornament, dating from
                         and government, while the region’s   Visigothic times. The interior
                         official languages are both Basque   is undergoing restora tion.
                         (Euskera) and Spanish. The head
                         of this government is called the
                         lehendakarí (president), and is
                         appointed by the Basque parliament
                         every four years. The parliament
                         building where the 75 deputies meet
                         is located in the Lakua district of
                         Vitoria-Gasteiz. Basque politicians
                         have long been putting the case
                         forward for a new statute that would
        The parliament building of the   ensure still greater independence
        Basque government  from Spain’s central government.  A stained-glass window in the Catedral de
                                               Santa María
       For hotels and restaurants see pp205–6 and pp219–21


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