Page 148 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2017 - Northern Spain

146  NOR THERN SP AIN REGION B Y REGION

o Torre Palacio de
los Varona
Villanañe (Álava). Road Map A5.
Tel 945 10 10 70. Open Jul–Aug:
11am–2pm & 4–7pm Tue–Sat,
11am–2pm Sun; Sep–Jun: 11am–2pm
& 4–7pm Sat, 11am–2pm Sun & public
hols. & (free 1st Sat of month). 8
The small town of Villanañe
is home to a fine example of
medieval military architecture,
the tower and mansion of the
Varona family. Set on a hill, with
commanding views of the
surrounding countryside, this The Romanesque Iglesia de San Martin de Tours in Gaceo
imposing structure is the most
well-preserved 14th-century a Gaceo and Alaiza (20 ft), are numerous wine
fortified building in the region. Road Map B5. Tel 945 30 29 31. 8 cellars – bodegas or cuevas,
Its origins date back to the year by appt. ∑ cuadrillasalvatierra.org which can be visited. Laguardia
680, when the first tower was is the most important town in
built on this site by the Visigoth Not far from Vitoria, the villages Rioja Alavesa, a district that
admiral Ruy Pérez. Since the of Gaceo and Alaiza conceal has, for centuries, produced
15th century, the mansion hidden treasure: medieval excellent Rioja wines. The land
has been home to the Varona murals. In the Iglesia de San is extremely fertile, and almost
family, and has evolved over Martín de Tours in Gaceo, the the entire local population is
the years with the needs of 14th-century murals adorn involved in vine cultivation.
its occupants. Nonetheless, the crypt and chancel, The town is also celebrated
the interior contains a presenting the text of for its food.
wealth of interesting the catechism for the Laguardia is entered through
historical detail, benefit of non-Latin- one of five fortified gateways
including period speaking incorporated in the ring of walls.
furniture. The believers. The At the centre of Laguardia is the
upper rooms murals also Plaza Mayor, on which stand
are decorated depict the two town halls – the old one,
with strikingly Holy Trinity, with the coat of arms of Charles
colourful the Last V, and the current one, which
17th- and Judgement, bears the town’s crest. The
18th-century scenes from the Gothic Iglesia de Santa María
wall paper, Torre Palacio de los Varona Way of the Cross de los Reyes, of 12th-century
which replaced and the life of origin, features a richly sculpted,
the tapestries that previously Christ, and redeemed souls. polychrome interior portal (14th
hung on the walls. Some of the In Alaiza is the Iglesia de century), with a delicate statue
floors are of wood, while others Santa María de la Asunción, of the Virgin and Child dating
are tiled in traditional Manises featuring murals from the same from the same period.
porcelain decorated with period but cruder than those at
scenes from Don Quixote. Gaceo. The depiction is more
schematic and the figures less
complex. The subject matter
p Salvatierra relates to conflict, bringing to
mind stark and rather uncom-
Álava.Road Map B5. * 5,000. £ @
n Mayor 8; 945 30 29 31. _ San promising war reportage.
Juan Bautista (24 Jun), Nuestra Señora
del Rosario (1st Sun in Oct). 8 (see s Laguardia
website) ∑ agurain.biz
Álava. Road Map A5. * 1,550. @
Set among green hills and n Calle Mayor 52; 945 60 08 45.
beech woods is the small town _ San Juan and San Pedro (24–29
of Salvatierra. Rising above the Jun). ∑ laguardia-alava.com
surrounding area is the walled
Old Town. Also worth seeing Laguardia is a fascinating old
are the former hospital of San town encircled by 13th-century
Lázaro y la Magdalena and the walls, which is closed to traffic. One of the fortified gateways leading
Gothic church of Santa María. Underground, at a depth of 6 m to Laguardia
For hotels and restaurants see pp205–6 and pp219–21

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