Page 109 - Forbes - Asia (December 2019 - January 2020)
P. 109

FORBES LIFE






                       atek Philippe is known by en-        “In our family, we don’t                      at a faster pace. “We are not Swatch,
                       thusiasts as one of the watch                                                      we cannot just push a button” to boost
                       industry’s “holy trinity”—           just pass the watches                         production, he says. Aspiring owners
             Pthree highly regarded Swiss                   down the generations.                         of a Patek must often join waiting lists
              watch brands—along with Audemars              We pass the whole                             to buy one. There’s a five- to eight-year
              Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. Patek                                                       wait, for instance, for a stainless-steel
              Philippe, like Audemars Piguet, remains  company.”                                          Nautilus model.

              independent of the big luxury groups,                                                          Stern also says more production
              such as Kering, LVMH and Richemont.           Philippe handed over control of the           would undercut Pateks’ value. “If we
              For four generations, it has been owned       business. The company employs 1,600           made a million watches per year, do
              by the Stern family of Switzerland.           staff at its Geneva headquarters and          you really think people will still buy
                 In an exclusive interview with             an additional 600 internationally, and        them? I don’t think so,” he says. “I have
              Forbes Asia during Patek’s recent             had estimated 2018 sales of 1.45 billion      one vision for Patek, and that is to have
              Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singa-          Swiss francs ($1.5 billion).                  the highest level of quality. Quality and
              pore, Patek president Thierry Stern of-          Philippe Stern remains as honorary         quantity don’t get along. Ask Picasso to
              fers a personal take on its famous tag-       chairman of the company. “I’m proud           reproduce the same picture 20 times—
              line: “You never actually own a Patek         that during the transition between my-        it is not possible, and also, he would
              Philippe. You merely look after it for        self and my dad, nobody realized [there       never do it. It’s the same for Patek.”
              the next generation.” Stern’s version?        was a change in leadership]. We kept             One of Stern’s two teenage sons is
              “In our family, we don’t just pass the        the same strategies and communica-            showing interest in the business. His
              watches down the generations. We              tion, the same type of product. We kept       16-year-old son has just commenced
              pass the whole company,” he says.             our soul,” says Stern.                        studies at a watchmaking school, as Stern
                 The Watch Art Grand Exhibition                Stern has helped maintain Patek’s          did in his youth. “He made his own deci-
              that brought Stern, 49, to Singapore          status as one of the world’s most highly      sion, he’s enjoying it,” Stern says. His el-
              is the company’s signature event, held        prized watches through scarcity. Since        dest son, 18, will soon begin studying
              on four previous occasions since 2013.        the company’s foundation in 1839,             hotel management. Stern says he won’t
              This one was the largest to date, at 1,800    Patek has been known for its low out-         force either into the business. “That’s a
              square meters, and marked the first           put—annual production now is about            huge mistake,” he says. “They have to de-
              time the exhibition was held in Asia—         62,000 pieces. One Patek timepiece can        cide what they would like to do; I’m not
              an indication of Asia’s continued impor-      take a year or more to craft. Stern says      obliging them. I didn’t have children just
              tance for the global luxury watch indus-      it would be difficult to create watches       so they could take over Patek.”  F
              try. It is also another demonstration of
              the Stern family’s determination to re-
              main an independent, family-owned
                                                               From left: Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700/1A, Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3940G
              business. Early this year, rumors sur-           and Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A.
              faced that LVMH was considering a bid
              for Patek. In January, analysts at Ger-
              man investment bank Berenberg esti-
              mated that Patek could sell for as much
              as €9 billion ($10 billion).
                 Asked whether he’s received offers
              from some big groups, Stern replies,
              “Are they interested? I would say ‘yes’.”
              Then he adds that these bids reinforce
              his determination to stay family-owned.
              “That means that you did something               Precious Time
           SCOTT WOODWARD FOR FORBES ASIA  Philippe family in 1932 during the   far higher than retail. While not all high-end watches appreciate in price, some Pateks have risen
              right. But we are not for sale,” he says.
                                                               Buying a secondhand Patek does not require joining a waiting list but resale prices can often be
                 The Sterns bought Patek from the
                                                               sharply in value. A 1970s steel Nautilus, sold for about $3,000 when new, now commands more
              Great Depression, when the Philippe
                                                               than $60,000. Patek’s perpetual calendar chronographs from the 1980s, sold for around $20,000
                                                               at the time, have recently been auctioned from $400,000 to over a million. A very rare, 1950s
              family were the original watchmakers
                                                               perpetual calendar chronograph in steel, originally priced at $2,200, became the most expensive
              and the Sterns a supplier of watch dials
                                                               wristwatch ever sold, at more than $11 million in 2016. That sum was eclipsed this November when
              to them. Thierry Stern has headed
                                                               a one-of-a-kind, steel Grandmaster Chime (a model released in 2014, in a limited edition of seven
                                                               pieces, for a price close to $2.5 million) sold for $31 million.
              Patek since 2009, when his father


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