Page 154 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Provence & The Côte d'Azur

152  PROVENCE AREA B Y AREA

p Aix-en-Provence R Cathédrale St-Sauveur
34 pl des Martyrs de la Résistance.
Provence’s former capital is an international students’ town, with Tel 04 42 23 45 65. Open daily
one of the region’s most cosmopolitan streets of restaurants (timings vary, call ahead). 8 for
cloisters. ∑ cathedrale-aix.net
and bars, rue de la Verrerie. The university was founded
by Louis II of Anjou in 1409 and flourished under his son, The cathedral at the top of the
old town creaks with history.
Good King René (see pp50–51). Another wave of prosperity The main door has solid
transformed the city in the 17th century, when ramparts, first walnut panels sculpted by Jean
raised by the Romans in their town of Aquae Sextiae, were Guiramand (1504). On the right
pulled down, and the mansion-lined cours Mirabeau was built. there is a fine 4th–5th-century
Aix’s renowned fountains were added in the 18th century. baptistry, with a Renaissance
cupola standing on 2nd-century
Corinthian columns. These are
from a basilica which stood
here beside the Roman forum.
The jewel of the church is the
triptych of The Burning Bush
(1476, see pp50–51) by Nicolas
Froment. South of the cathedral
are tiled Romanesque cloisters.
E Musée du Palais de
l’Archevêché
Ancien Palais de l’Archevêché, 28
place des Martyrs de la Résistance.
Tel 04 42 23 09 91. Open Wed–Mon.
The cours Mirabeau, grandest of Aix’s boulevards Closed 1 May, 25 Dec. &
Apart from magnificent 17th- and
Exploring Aix Jouques (1730); No. 20, Hôtel 18th-century Beauvais tapestries,
North of the cours Mirabeau, de Forbin (1658); and Hôtel the museum has costumes and
between the Cathédrale d’Espagnet at No. 38, once home stage designs from 1948 onwards,
St-Sauveur and the place to the Duchess of Montpensier, used in the annual Festival
d’Albertas, lies the town’s old known as “La Grande Made- International d’Art Lyrique (see p37).
quarter. Sights include the Musée moiselle”, niece of Louis XIII.
du Palais de l’Archevêché, South of the cours Mirabeau E Musée Estienne de Saint-
housed in the former Bishop’s is the Quartier Mazarin built Jean (Vieil Aix)
palace, and the 17th-century during the time of Archbishop 17 rue Gaston de Saporta. Tel 04 42
Hôtel de Ville. Built around a Michel Mazarin. Aix’s first Gothic 91 89 78. Open Wed–Mon. &
courtyard by Pierre Pavillon, church, St-Jean- de-Malte, now This eclectic collection includes
it stands in a square now used houses the Musée Granet. furniture, a 19th-century
as a flower market. Nearby is The museum has also been crèche parlante and figures
the 16th-century clock tower. expanded into the Chapelle from the Corpus Christi parade
Just outside the old town are des Pénitents Blancs, a few steps commissioned by King René.
the ancient Roman baths, the away from the original building.
Thermes Sextius, and nearby is E Hôtel de Caumont
the 18th-century spa complex. Centre d’Art
Aix’s finest street, the cours 3 rue Joseph Cabassol. Tel 04 42
Mirabeau, is named after the 20 70 01. Open daily. & 7 -
orator and revolutionary Comte ∑ caumont-centredart.com
de Mirabeau. At its western end Housed in an 18th-century hotel,
is the Fontaine de la Rotonde, a the Caumont Art Centre hosts
cast-iron fountain built in 1860. temporary art exhibitions and
The north side is lined with shops, a programme of concerts and
pâtisseries and cafés, the most lectures. A film on Paul Cézanne’s
illustrious being the 18th-century life in Aix is also screened daily.
Les Deux Garçons (see p219). The
south side is lined with elegant E Musée Granet
mansions: No. 4, Hôtel de Villars Pl St-Jean de Malte. Tel 04 42 52 88 32.
(1710); No. 10, the Hôtel d’Isoard Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
de Vauvenargues (1710), former 25 Dec. & 8 = ∑ museegranet-
residence of the Marquis of aixenprovence.fr
Entrecasteau who murdered his The splendid 17th-century Hôtel de Ville, The city’s main museum is in a
wife here; No. 19, Hôtel d’Arbaud with the flower market in front 17th-century former priory of the
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp200–1 and pp212–15