Page 221 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Provence & The Côte d'Azur

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  219

To service this penchant for The best place to buy picnic ceréales. The nearest to healthy
portable dining, Provençal food is the local market. bread is pain de campagne, a
villages have specialist shops Every town in Provence has its sturdier baguette made with
offering ready-to-eat food. market, some daily, like Aix-en- unrefined white flour. One of
Boulangeries and pâtisseries Provence, some just once or the finest boulangeries in the
serve everything from fresh twice a week. No Provençal region is Le Four à Bois, in
croissants to quiches and a picnic is complete without the old quarter of Nice, where
dazzling array of cakes and French bread – the baguette the same recipes have been
tarts. Nearly all boulangeries is the mainstay of the country used for generations.
provide delicious, freshly and Provence is no exception. Boulangeries are found in
made baguette sandwiches. The only difference is that every village and usually have
In the main towns, specialist the region boasts numerous a good selection of pâtisseries,
butchers called traîteurs local breads, incorporating cakes and tarts. Provençal
pro-vide ready-made dishes, traditional ingredients. Pain ingredients are combined to
such as salads, cold meats and aux olives is found almost make these delights, such as
roast chicken, sold in cartons everywhere, often in the form honey, almonds and fruit – try
according to weight. Au Flan of fougasse, a flat, lattice-like those at Béchard in Aix-en-
Coco in Nîmes and Bataille loaf. Alternatively, this may Provence. For those with
in Marseille are fine examples. contain anchovies (pain aux an even sweeter tooth, these
Most supermarkets also have anchois), or spinach (pain same ingredients are used
similar delicatessen counters. aux épinards) and there is in the handmade chocolates
Charcuteries specialize in a sweet version flavoured and candied fruit. Calissons
pork dishes, particularly pâtés with almonds. Wholemeal or (an almond-paste sweet) and
suc
suc
and sausages. For traditional brown bread is an anathema suce-miel (honey-based candy) e-miel (honey-based candy) e-miel
spicy sausages much prized to the traditional Provençaux, are very popular. Two of the
in the Camargue, head to although many bakeries now best shops are Puyricard in
the Maison Genin in Arles. produce it – ask for pain aux Aix and Auer in Nice.
DIRECTORY
Cafés ST-PAUL DE VENCE MARSEILLE VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-
MER
AIX-EN-PROVENCE Café de la Place Le Bar de la Marine
1 place du Général 15 quai de Rive Neuve. Le Cosmo Bar
Brasserie Les Deux de Gaulle. Tel 04 91 54 95 42. 11 pl Amélie Pollonais.
Garçons Tel 04 93 32 80 03. La Part des Anges Tel 04 93 01 84 05.
53 cours Mirabeau. 33 rue Sainte.
Tel 04 42 26 00 51. ST-TROPEZ Tel 04 91 33 55 70. Picnic and Take-
CANNES Brasserie des Arts MONACO Away Food
5 place des Lices. AIX-EN-PROVENCE
Restaurant Carlton Tel 04 94 40 27 37. Flashman’s
58 la Croisette. 7 ave Princesse Alice. Béchard
Tel 04 93 06 40 06. Le Café de Paris Tel 00 377 93 30 09 03. 12 cours Mirabeau.
Le Port, 15 quai de Suffren.
EZE Tel 04 94 97 00 56. NICE Puyricard
7–9 rue Rifle-rafle.
Château Eza Senequier De Klomp
6 rue Mascoinat.
Rue de la Pise. Quai Jean Jaurès. Tel 09 82 34 14 21. ARLES
Tel 04 93 41 12 24. Tel 04 94 97 20 20. Maison Genin
Les Trois Diables
MONACO 2 cours Saleya. 11 rue des Porcelets.
Bars and Pubs
La Brasserie du Tel 06 62 27 47 17. MARSEILLE
Café de Paris AVIGNON Wayne’s Bar Bataille
Le Casino, place du Casino. Pub Z 15 rue de la Préfecture. 18 rue Fontange.
Tel 00 377 98 06 76 23. 58 rue de la Bonneterie. Tel 04 93 13 46 99. Le Four des Navettes
NICE Tel 04 88 07 20 16. NÎMES 136 rue Sainte.
Le Grand Café de CANNES La Grande Bourse NICE
Turin 3.14 2 blvd des Arenes. Auer
5 place Garibaldi. 5 rue François Einesy. Tel 04 66 67 68 69. 7 rue St-François- de-Paule.
Tel 04 93 62 29 52. Tel 04 92 99 72 09. ST-JEAN-CAP-FERRAT Le Four à Bois
NÎMES JUAN-LES-PINS Le Bar 35 rue Droite.
Grand Hôtel de Cap–
Le Café Olive Pam-Pam Ferrat, 71 blvd du NÎMES
22 blvd Victor Hugo. 137 blvd Wilson. Général de Gaulle. Au Flan Coco
Tel 04 66 67 89 10. Tel 04 93 61 11 05. Tel 04 93 76 50 50. 21 rue du Grand Couvent.