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CURRIES ACROSS THE SUBCONTINENT
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KOLKATA HYDERABAD
Formerly known as Calcutta, the humid capital Hyderabad is south India’s most Islamic city
of West Bengal is famed for its intellectual but also the capital of overwhelmingly Hindu
prowess. Bengali cuisine is spicy and aromatic, Andhra Pradesh. These two influences have
featuring many fish and seafood recipes, such combined to produce the biryani, a risotto-
as shrimp malai (“with coconut”) curry. style dish of rice with vegetables or meat.
Bhojohori Manna inexpensive Paradise Persis inexpensive
18/1A Hindustan Road; www.bhojohorimanna.com Mahatma Gandhi Road, Secunderabad;
The original branch of a small citywide chain churns www.paradisefoodcourt.com
out delicious Bengali fish and shrimp favorites as This very popular spot in the thick of Hyderabad’s
well as some tandoori dishes. twin city cooks delicious biryanis and other west
Asian delights, such as mutton kebabs.
Kewpie’s Kitchen moderate
2 Elgin Lane; +91 33 2475 9880 Hotel Shadab moderate
The best Bengali cuisine you can get aside from Madina Circle, Patthargatti; +91 40 2456 1648
home-cooking, perhaps because the restaurant is A highly rated biryani joint situated between the river
the annex to a private home. As well as malai curry, and the heart of the Muslim Old City, this has added
you can get malai chingri, shrimp in cream. fish and meat tandoori dishes to its menu and has
an air-conditioned dining hall.
6 Ballygunge Place expensive
6 Ballygunge Place; +91 33 2460 3922 Firdaus expensive
Catering to the wealthier sector of Kolkata society, Taj Krishna Hotel, Banjara Hills; +91 40 6666 2323
this classy restaurant places as much emphasis on Biryanis are just one among many exquisite Indian
its ambience and decor as on the freshly prepared dishes that you can feast upon in the chandelier-lit
seafood, including fish wrapped in banana leaf. opulence of this luxury-class hotel restaurant.
GOA RAJASTHAN
Goa is a former Portuguese colony, and the The colorful state of Rajasthan is a tapestry
Christian culinary influence is evident in of desert, arable land, and imposing forts and
the presence of pork and wine, both rare palaces. The arid environment and roving
in India. Fiery vindaloo, derived from the lifestyle of the Rajputs (wealthy landowners)
Portuguese carne de vinha d’Alhos (a led to the development of a cuisine light on
wine-marinated pork dish) may contain both. vegetables, such as gatta (dumpling) curry.
Cafe Xavier inexpensive Monica inexpensive
141 Municipal Market, Mapusa; +91 832 226 2229 First Fort Gate, Jaisalmer
This is an ideal place for a vindaloo, amid Goa’s Right by the entrance to the Arabian Nights-style
biggest market. You can also sample xacuti, meat or fort, this modest but extremely popular restaurant
fish cooked in another fiery sauce of lemon juice, serves a variety of Rajasthani dishes, including gatta
coconut milk, nuts, and red chili peppers. curry and thalis (see pp208–9), as well as tandoori.
George Restaurant & Bar inexpensive Chokhi Dhani moderate
Church Square, Panaji; +91 944 405 3656 Tonk Road, near Jaipur; www.chokhidhani.com
A favorite local hangout that serves authentic Dining in this theme-park-style restaurant complex is
Goan-Catholic cuisine, including vindaloo, kingfish a unique experience; try the filling Rajasthani thali
curry, and shrimp-stuffed papad (poppadoms). that includes gatta curry.
Ordo Sounsar moderate Marwar expensive
North end of beach, Palolem; www.ordosounsar.com Taj Hari Mahal Hotel, Jodhpur; +91 291 243 9700
This is a top beach-resort restaurant for sampling This is a fine place to treat yourself to luxurious
real Goan food, not dumbed-down for the Western surroundings and the traditional Marwari cuisine of
palate. Try vindaloo-hot shrimp balchao, in chili pepper Rajasthan, including gatta di subzi, a vegetable and
sauce, or shark ambotik, a hot-and-sour preparation. dumpling combination, and mas, a spicy mutton dish.