Page 350 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - USA
P. 350

348      THE  DEEP  SOUTH


                           0  Bourbon Street   close to Arnaud’s, is another
                                               premier New Orleans
                           Map D3. @ 3, 55, 89.
                                               restaurant (see p372). Lafitte’s
                           Today Bourbon Street is   Blacksmith Shop, at 941
                           synonymous with sin. This   Bourbon Street, is considered
                           legendary street, named after   one of the finest bars in
                           the French royal family of   New Orleans. Constructed
                           Bourbon, is lined with bars    sometime before 1772, it is
                           that offer vats of such lethal   a good example of the brick-
                           concoctions as Brain Freeze,   between-posts French-style
                           Nuclear Kamikaze, and Sex on   building, in which soft local
                           the Bayou, most often to the   bricks are supported by cypress
                           accompaniment of blasting   timbers and protected by
                           rock or blues. Other places    plaster. Inside, several small
                           offer everything from peep   fireplaces warm the place on
       Master bedroom at the Hermann-Grima   shows, topless dancers, and   cool evenings, and there is
       Historic House      strip joints, to drag shows and   also a small patio containing a
                           gay bars. During Mardi Gras,    sculpture of Adam and Eve,
       9  Hermann-Grima    the sidewalks and overhanging   created by an inventive artist
       Historic House      balconies are jammed with   as payment for his bar bill.
                           crowds and drinking revelers.    Despite its name, there is
       Map D3. 820 St. Louis St. Tel (504)     Some of the most famous   no concrete evidence that the
       525-5661. @ 3. Open 10am–3pm   establishments near this lively   pirate brothers, Jean and Pierre
       Mon, Tue & Thu–Sat. Closed public   street include Pat O’Brien’s    Lafitte, operated a smithy here
       hols. & 8 7 ∑ hgghh.org
                           (St. Peter Street), which is well-  as a front for their smuggling
       This gabled brick house is one   known for its rum-based   activities. They were also
       of the French Quarter’s few   “Hurricane” cocktail, Preser-  prominent slave traffickers,
       examples of American Creole-  vation Hall (St. Peter Street),    selling “black ivory” to
       style architecture. It was built    a top-quality jazz venue, and   Louisiana’s prominent slave-
       in 1831 by William Brand for   Arnaud’s (Bienville Street), a   holding families. The brothers
       Samuel Hermann, a German-  restaurant that is a true New   earned local gratitude by
       Jewish merchant who lost his   Orleans classic. Galatoire’s,   warning the Americans of
       fortune in 1837 and sold the            the planned British attack
       house to Judge Felix Grima.             on New Orleans in 1815, and
       It features a central doorway           they fought bravely in the
       with a fanlight and marble              ensuing battle.
       steps; another window with a              Just up from Lafitte’s is the
       fanlight graces the second              oldest gay bar in the country,
       floor. Inside, the floors and           Café Lafitte in Exile. It is so
       doors are made of cypress.              called because, until the early
       The three-story service quarters        1950s, gays frequented the old
       are in a building off the               Lafitte’s; when the bar changed
       parterre garden behind the              hands, its new owner refused to
       house. They contain a kitchen           renew the lease, and its gay
       with a rare four-burner                 patrons establi shed their new
       wood-fired stove with a   Fire fountain at Pat O’Brien’s, near    quarters here. It has remained a
       beehive oven.       Bourbon Street      popular alternative ever since.
        A View of Royal Street
                                                     Antoine Peychaud’s
        The pride of the French Quarter, Royal Street   Pharmacy (#437) An
        is lined with beautiful buildings that have   Brennan’s (#417) Built   antique shop offering a
        been carefully restored. Today, they are   around 1802 for a Spanish   range of fine objects is
                                                     now housed in the
        occupied by elegant stores and restaurants.  merchant, this building   pharmacy where the
                                    became a bank, and then a   cocktail was born.
                                    restaurant in 1954. Its
                              Moss   balcony seal is made of
            Louisiana State Bank   Antiques  cast iron.
            (#403)




       For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp368–70 and pp371–3



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