Page 101 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany

DRIVE 9: Mystical Mountains 99

the 1920s works of this Bauhaus artist Left Scenic train ride to the Brocken
are displayed. To the left of Carl-Ritter- Below Sixteenth-century Renaissance
Strasse, on Wordgasse, lies the castle atop the Schlossberg, Quedlinburg
Fachwerkmuseum (open Fri–Wed),
Germany’s oldest half-tim bered house,
built in 1310, now a con struc tion HIKING IN THE BODE VALLEY
museum. Turn left for a short walk to The Hexenstieg, or Witches’ Trail, along
the Markt. One of its many attrac tive the Bode Valley takes in spectacular
buildings is the Rathaus, parts of scenery, passing gnarled trees that are
which date back to 1320. centuries old. This path is best explored
ª Leave Quedlinburg on Gernröder by first taking a bus No. 18 from Thale’s
train station to the village of Treseburg,
Weg, which becomes Suderöder then walking the 10 km (6 miles) back
Chaussee, then turn right on Suderöder downstream, which takes 2–3 hours.
Strasse for Thale. In Thale, turn left, For a longer walk, take the chairlift to
then right to Hexentanzplatz car park. tread in the footsteps of Stone Age Hexentanzplatz, then walk the 10-km
inhabitants and Ice Age bears, some (6-mile) trail to Treseburg, stop for
lunch, then return to Thale via the
Walpurgisnacht of whose skeletons remain here. The Hexenstieg – a walk of 4–5 hours.
Walpurgisnacht (30 April) probably adjacent Hermannshöhle (closed Maps are available at the tourist
began as a Celtic festival celebrat ing Nov–Apr) has impressive stalagmites information office (Bahnhofstrasse 1,
spring, but developed a reputation and stalactites. 06502 Thale; 03947 25 97).
for black magic. Legends grew of
witches and warlocks flying up to the ª Continue on the B27, turn right at
Brocken to recount the past year’s Elend and continue to Schierke; park EAT AND DRINK
evil deeds before holding an orgy at the railway station.
that included the devil himself. So
powerful were these legends that for 6 The Brocken QUEDLINBURG
centuries church bells would toll on Himmel und Hölle moderate
Walpurgisnacht to deter evil forces. Saxony-Anhalt; 38879 A cosy restaurant in a small hotel,
The ascent of the Brocken (1,141 m/ Himmel und Hölle is known for its
3,747 ft), the highest peak in the Harz, Flammkuchen, a pizza-like dish topped
4 The Hexentanzplatz is a vital part of any Harz itinerary. with cheese, onion and bacon.
Saxony-Anhalt; 06502 The easiest way to reach the top is Hölle 5, 06484; 03946 52 86 55;
www.himmelundhoelle-qlb.de
The Hexentanzplatz, or by the narrow-gauge
“witches’ dance place”, Brockenbahn railway, Theophano expensive
Tucked beneath the cellar arches of a
prob ably began life as a which climbs steeply to a 360-year-old half-timbered house, this
spiritual place used for height of 1,125 m (3,691 ft). restaurant serves modern regional
Celtic rituals and sacrifices. Trains depart from Schierke cuisine with an international touch, as
Later, it became known as for the short journey. Here, chef Sebastian Vogel and his team
an occult centre, where the Brockenmuseum experiment with various cooking styles.
Kornmarkt 6, 06484; 03946 81 00 50;
witches were said to (open daily) displays www.restaurant-theophano.de
gather before flying to the exhibits on the moun tain’s
Brocken on Walpurgisnacht. geology and mythology. AROUND THE BROCKEN
Today, revellers arrive An easy 2.5-km (1.5-mile) Bahnhofsbaude Schierke
on the same night to Sculpture of a goblin, path loops the summit, inexpensive
enjoy the cele bra tions. the Hexentanzplatz offering superb views. Dishes and hearty snacks from the
Harz region are served here.
A modest museum, the ª Return to the B27 and Auf dem Brocken, 38879 Schierke;
Walpurgishalle (May–Oct: open daily), turn right. In Braunlage, turn right 03945 55 83 45
explains pagan worship in German down Pfaffenstieg and right again on
with vivid draw ings and a ghoulish to the Wurmberg chairlift car park.
Germanic sacrificial stone.
ª From Thale return to the T-junction Steam Trains in the Harz
and turn left. Continue on the same Steaming through 140 km (87 miles)
road and turn right on to the B81. In of track through the moun tains, the
Blankenburg, turn left on to the B27 Harzer Schmalspurbahn (www.hsb-
to the car park left beyond the caves. wr.de) is the larg est narrow-gauge
network in Europe. Many of the
5 Rübeland Höhlen steam trains are from the 1950s, but
one has been in service since 1887.
Saxony-Anhalt; 38889 The railway lines link Quedlinburg,
Since its chance discovery by a Nordhausen and Wernigerode with
15th-century miner, the 600,000- the Brocken. Round trips depart on
year-old Baumannshöhle (closed Nov– Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.
Apr) has attracted visitors keen to

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