Page 103 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany
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DRIVE 9: Mystical Mountains  101


       the 15th-century Rathaus with its
       Gothic gables looks most impressive
       at night. Behind it is the Romanesque
       market church or Marktkirche. The
       16th-cen tury half-timbered Brusttuch
       Haus 2, with its excellent wood work,
       lies behind the church. From the left of
       the house, Hoher Weg leads to the
       Historisches Zinnfigurenmuseum 3
       (closed Mon; www.zinnfigurenmuseum-
       goslar.de), one of the best miniature tin
       figure museums in Germany. Just off
       Hoher Weg, a path to the left follows
       the Abzucht stream, which leads to
       the Goslarer Museum 4 (closed Mon).
       Inside, the Goslarer Evangeliar, a jewel-        Above left Fountain in the Markt, Goslar
       encrusted book of gospels, and the   Heinrich III’s heart in a gilt box. From   Above right Outdoor cafés in Goslar with
       Bergkanne, a stein with figures of   Kaiserpfalz go left to Bergstrasse. On   the Marktkirche looming behind  Below Old
       miners, are displayed. Back to Hoher   the opposite corner is the Baroque   mine at the Rammelsberger Bergbaumuseum
       Weg, the Grosses-Heiliges-Kreuz 5   Siemenshaus 7 (guided tours only), the
       (closed Mon), a former hospice, is now a   family home of the Siemens indus tri-
       crafts cen tre. At the end of Hoher Weg   alist family. A short walk from here to
       is the Domvorhalle, the vestibule of a   Jakobistrasse leads to Mönchehaus
       church that once housed the   Museum 8 (closed Mon), which
       Kaiserstuhl, the imperial throne. Down   displays the work of art ists including
       the street to the right is the Kaiserpfalz  Willem de Kooning. Continue down   EAT AND DRINK IN GOSLAR
       6 (open daily), the 11th-cen tury   Jakobistrasse to the car park.   Die Worthmühle moderate
       imperial palace of Heinrich III. Later,    ª Turn right on to Vogelsang, left    Harz’s speciality restaurant, with
       it was used as a granary, until it was   on to Bäckerstrasse, then right on    rustic nooks and dishes such as
       rescued by Kaiser Wilhelm I in 1868    to Mauerstrasse and left on to   wild boar and trout, serves excellent
       for the Second Reich. Inside, the   Okerstrasse. Turn right on to the B241   Goslarer Gosebier, a fruity local beer.
                                                        Worthstrasse 4, 38640; 05321 434 02;
       Ulrichskapelle is the resting place of   and left on to Rammelsberger Strasse   www.worthmuehle.de
                               to the museum.
                                                        Aubergine expensive
                               9 Rammelsberger          A luxury restaurant serving French
                                                        and Italian cusine. Good for fresh
                               Bergbaumuseum            fish and lamb. The mocha mousse
                               Lower Saxony; 38640      dessert is a house speciality.
                               For a millennium the Rammelsberger   Marktstrasse 4, 38640; 05321 421 36;
                               silver mine formed Goslar’s economic   www.aubergine-goslar.de
                               backbone. Closed down in 1998, it has   Other options
                                                        Goslar is filled with atmospheric cafés,
                               since become the Bergbaumuseum   but look out for the Baroque-style
                               (open daily), which chronicles the mine’s   Café Anders (Hohe Weg 4, 38640;
                               history. Visitors can don overalls and   05321 238 14), which offers home-
                               tour the 18th- and 19th-cen tury shafts.  made truffles and great Harz views.
        DAY TRIP OPTIONS       Follow the route to Thale and continue to   walk along Steinbrücke and then
        Despite its many dark and remote   the T-junction after Neinstedt. Turn right   turn right down Bahnhofstrasse.
        corners, the Harz is compact and   and head to Gernrode, then take the
        within range of day trips. Quedlinburg   road to Ballenstedt and continue to Burg   Picturesque Harz
        is a good base and is well served by   Falkenstein. For the caves, head from   Explore Goslar 8, a pretty town
        the narrow-gauge railway.  Thale to Blankenburg and on to the B27.   with 1,800 half-timbered houses,
                                                      and then head to the interesting
        Castles and caves      Magical Brocken        Rammelsberger Bergbaumuseum 9
        From Quedlinburg 3, head to Thale   Enjoy a ride on the narrow-gauge    to visit the old silver mine and
        and walk along the Bode Valley. If there   trains from Quedlinburg 3 to the    learn about the history of mining
        is time to spare, the Harzer Uhrenfabrik   summit of the Brocken 6.  in this region.
        2 at Gernrode is a good wet-weather
        option, along with the Burg Falkenstein  Quedlinburg’s railway station is at the    Follow the route to Goslar, then the B241
        1 or the Rübeland Höhlen 5.  end of Bahnhofstrasse; from the market   to Rammelsberger Bergbaumuseum.

                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40


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