Page 152 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany

150 BACK ROADS GERMANY

season’s first ripe grapes in a niche
outside the church, beside the
Traubenmadonna, or Grape Madonna,
to gain her blessing. At the northern
end of Boppard – a 20-minute walk
along the prome nade – a chairlift
(Apr–Oct: open daily) ascends to a fine
lookout known as the Vierseenblick,
or Four Lakes View, because the four
sections of the Rhine visible from
here look uncon nected. Several
hiking trails fan out from here, and
bus No. 34 takes an easy one-hour
route back into Boppard.
ª Turn right from the car park and
right again to turn left on to Mainzer
Strasse and on to B9 to Sankt Goar,
Above The Rhine meandering between then follow signs up Schlossberg
forested hillsides Below Sculpture of the 3 Boppard to the Burg Rheinfels car park.
mythical siren beside the Rhine, Loreley Rhineland-Palatinate; 56154
Just two horseshoe bends upstream 4 Burg Rheinfels
from Braubach and on the opposite Rhineland-Palatinate; 56329
bank of the Rhine, the atmospheric The Rhine’s largest castle, Burg
town of Boppard gathers around a Rheinfels (mid-Mar–mid Nov: open
riverfront promenade. Located beside daily; mid-Nov–mid-Mar: open Sat &
the ferry terminal, the Alte Burg is Sun) is a maze of sprawling passages,
the most impressive building on the trenches and tunnels and ruined
waterfront. Built as a strong hold and battlements (a torch is handy for
tollhouse in 1340, it now houses the explo ration). Equally incredible is the
Museum der Stadt Boppard (Apr–Oct: fact that the castle was once five
WHERE TO STAY closed Mon), which celebrates local times its present size and mighty
cabinet-maker Michael Thonet enough to survive a 14-month siege
BOPPARD (1796–1871), who invented bent- by 9,000 troops in 1255 and repel an
Weinhaus Heilig Grab moderate wood furniture. By soaking layered army of 28,000 in 1692. It would never
This 200-year-old historic wine tavern strips of wood veneer in hot glue be taken by force, for in 1794 it was
in the town centre has been converted and then bending them into shape handed over without a shot to the
into a hotel with a few basic rooms in metal moulds, he created
and a lovely garden.
Zelkesgasse 12, 56154; 06742 23 71; elegantly curved furniture
www.heiliggrab.de that became hugely popular
in the mid-19th century.
AROUND BURG RHEINFELS
A block southeast lies
Berghotel auf der Loreley moderate Boppard’s market place and
A modern hotel with small, basic
rooms enjoying a great setting at the the tourist office (May–Sep:
tip of the Loreley Rock. The Loreley closed Sun; Oct–Apr: open Mon–
visitors’ centre is a short walk away. Fri), which organizes wine
Auf der Loreley, Sankt Goarhausen, tastings (open Apr–Oct; www.
56346 (2 km/1 mile west of Burg boppard-tourismus.de) at local
Rheinfels); 06771 809 20;
www.berghotel-loreley.de vineyards. Just beyond,
crossing Oberstrasse, the
OBERWESEL town’s main shopping street,
Burghotel Auf Schönburg a short walk down Kirchgasse
expensive leads to the Römer-Kastell,
An unusual opportunity to stay in a
castle overlooking the Rhine. A castle where four of Boppard’s 4th-
has stood here since the 10th century, century Roman watchtowers
though this is a 1914 rebuild of the are preserved.
one burned down by French troops Back on Oberstrasse, a few
in 1689. Rooms have a glamorous, minutes’ walk west leads to
turn-of-the-20th-century feel.
Auf Schönburg, 55430; 06744 939 30; the Karmeliterstrasse and its
www.burghotel-schoenburg.de; church, Karmelitenkirche.
closed in Feb Local farmers place the
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150
150-151_175705_BR_GER.indd 150 18/07/16 12:15 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 24th March 2009
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