Page 157 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany

DRIVE 14: The Romantic Rhine 155

Left Lovely view of the domed Christuskirche,
Mainz Below Wine cellars, Kloster Eberbach

EAT AND DRINK

KLOSTER EBERBACH
Klosterschänke moderate
This restaurant at Kloster
Eberbach serves plenty of
uncomplicated hearty dishes
such as pork ragout with potato
dumplings and some lovely
wines from the estate to wash
them down with.
Gewölbehallen (open daily), which Invention of the Printing Press Kloster Eberbach, Eltville, 65346;
stores its treasures. These include In the early 15th-century, goldsmith 06723 99 30; www.kloster
sparkling reliquaries, intricate 15th- Johannes Gutenberg experimented eberbach.com
and 16th-century tapestries, a with several technologies that led MAINZ
13th-century rood screen by the to the invention of the printing press. Heiliggeist inexpensive–moderate
Master of Naumburg, which vividly These included the development The main menu at this restaurant
depicts Sin and Salvation, and of movable metal type and moulds, offers an eclectic mix of German,
some Rococo choir stalls. oil-based inks and the mechanical Asian and Italian-style dishes. It is
Celebrating Mainz’s most famous printing press, for which he initially especially known for its croustarte,
a crispy pizza-like dish which is a
son, Johannes Gutenberg, the adapted wine presses. The results little different from the traditional
Gutenberg-Museum (closed Mon) on changed the world forever, as infor- German Flammkuchen.
Liebfrauenplatz shows a recon struc- ma tion could spread more quickly. Mailandgasse 11, 55116;06131 22
tion of his workshop from 1450 This gave more power to the 57 57; www.heiliggeist-mainz.de
and has a rare copy of his first major masses and helped to spread the Haus des Deutschen Weines
work: the 42-line Bible, from 1455, Protestant Reformation. moderate
which was named after the number Visit this restaurant for the sheer
of lines on each page. The museum number of choices and the reason-
also puts Gutenberg’s invention in ably priced, good-quality German
food. If you don’t want a full meal,
context with a look at Asian printing try the traditional accompaniment
tech ni ques and the hand copying Spundekäse (a cheese, onion and
of manu scripts, which he effectively cream dip with crusty bread).
turned into a dying art. For a hands- Gutenbergplatz 3–5, 55116; 06131 22
on experience, visit the nearby 13 00; www.hdw-gaststaetten.de
printing shop Druckladen (closed Hotel Schwan moderate
Sun), where visitors can hand-set type Traditional wine bars or Weinstuben
(aprons are pro vided) to produce abound in Mainz, but this cosy
place is the oldest in the region
posters, cards and flyers. Enthusias tic and worth seeking out.
staff offer guidance to those trying Liebfrauenstrasse 7, 55116; 06131 14
their hand at printing. 49 20; www.mainz-hotel-schwan.de

DAY TRIP OPTIONS town of Rüdesheim 0 on the banks Mighty fortifications
All the stops on this route can of the Rhine. Take its chairlift over Explore Boppard 3, with its
be visited on day trips. Koblenz the pretty vineyards to the excel lent remaining Roman walls, then ride
in particular is a good base for and downhill two-hour walk to the chairlift up to the Vierseenblick.
boat trips. Next, wander around the splendid
Assmannshausen, with sweeping
Medieval castles and monasteries Rhine Valley views along the way. medieval town fortifica tions of
Drive along the banks of the End the day with a sumptuous meal Oberwesel 6 and those of the
quaint wine town of Bacharach 8
Rhine, stopping at the Marksburg 2, at the peaceful and atmospheric before a visit to the Gothic fantasy
the Rhine’s most attractive castle Kloster Eberbach q.
and the unusual islet-based castle of Burg Rheinstein 9.
Burg Pfalzgrafenstein 7 before Take the B42 along the right bank Take the B9 along the left bank
arriving at the bustling of the Rhine. of the Rhine.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40

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