Page 153 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany
P. 153

DRIVE 14: The Romantic Rhine  151


       French Revolutionary Army who soon
       set about demolishing the citadel.
       ª Return to Sankt Goar, turn right
       down B9 and park at the Sankt Goar-
       Sankt Goarshausen ferry terminal.
       Leave the car here and board the ferry
       across the Rhine as a foot passenger
       if intending to walk or take the shuttle
       bus up the Loreley, since the tour
       returns this way.
       5 Loreley
       Rhineland-Palatinate; 56346
       The giant rock outcrop on the
       oppo site side of the Rhine from
       Sankt Goar, and above Sankt                      Above left Remains of a Roman military
       Goarshausen, is known as the   ª Return to Sankt Goar on the ferry   camp, Boppard  Above right Marktplatz and
       Loreley. Vistors can either hike,    and turn left on to B9. In Oberwesel,   Romanesque Severuskirche, Boppard  Below
       drive or take a shuttle bus (Apr–Oct:   park on riverfront.  Outer walls of the formidable Burg Rheinfels
       hourly) from the ferry terminal to the
       summit for breath taking views. The   6 Oberwesel  EAT AND DRINK
       visitors’ centre (Mar–mid-Nov: open   Rhineland-Palatinate; 55430
       daily; Besucherzentrum Loreley; www.  Located on the left bank of the Rhine,   AROUND BURG RHEINFELS
       loreley-touristik.de) has an English-  the charming wine town of Oberwesel   Berghotel auf der Loreley moderate
       language exhibition on the region’s   boasts a well-preserved 3-km (2-mile)   This restaurant in the Berghotel auf der
       past and natural history.  long medieval wall around the old   Loreley serves traditional German food.
                               town that makes for a good walk.    Auf der Loreley, Sankt Goarhausen,
                                                        56346 (2 km/1 mile west of Burg
           The Legend of Loreley  The local history museum in the   Rheinfels); 06771 809 20;
        The name Loreley is thought to   central Kulturhaus (Apr–Oct: open   www.berghotel-loreley.de
        originate from the old German and   daily) has a good collec tion of   Loreley Weinstubchen moderate
        Celtic words for “lure” and “rock”    19th-century engrav ings of the sort   A snug place with fresh fish and an
        and the legend of a lady who    that helped romanticize the Rhine   excellent Rieslingschnitzel (veal in wine).
        threw her self into the Rhine near    and photo graphs of the local ladies   Bahnhofstrasse 16, Sankt Goarhausen,
        St Goarshausen in despair over a   who have been crowned Weinhexe –   56346 (2 km/1 mile west of Burg
        faith less lover. On dying, she transfor-       Rheinfels); 06771 70 68
        med herself into a bewitching siren   the good “wine witch” who protects   Zum Goldenen Löwen moderate
        and sat on the rock singing alluring   the wine harvest – every April since   The top-notch German cuisine here
        songs. Distracted sailors would then   the 1940s, follow ing a local tradition.  includes specialities such as Braten vom
        fall foul of the under currents and   ª Continue on the B9 to the Kaub-  Spanferkal (roasted suckling pig).
        rocky riverbed beneath the giant   Langscheid ferry. Leave the car and   Heerstrasse 82, Sankt Goar, 56329
        cliff that marks the narrow est point   cross the Rhine on ferry as a foot   (south of Burg Rheinfels); 06741 16 74;
        on the Rhine between Switzerland   passenger and take the passenger   www.goldener-loewe-stgoar.de
        and the North Sea.
                               boat to Burg Pfalzgrafenstein.  Schloss-Restaurant Auf
                                                        Scharffeneck expensive
                                                        An elegant restaurant in Hotel Schloss
                                                        Rheinfels offering game from the
                                                        nearby Hünsrück highlands.
                                                        Schlossberg 47, Sankt Goar, 56329
                                                        (south of Burg Rheinfels); 06741 80 20
                                                        OBERWESEL
                                                        Hotel Römerkrug moderate
                                                        A range of German favourites, from
                                                        pork medallions and steak in wild
                                                        mushroom sauce to local fish such as
                                                        Zander (local perch), is served here.
                                                        Marktplatz 1, 55430; 06744 70 91;
                                                        www.hotel-roemerkrug.rhinecastles.
                                                        com; closed Wed, Sat & Sun in winter
                                                        Burghotel Auf Schönburg expensive
                                                        This restaurant serves regional recipes
                                                        made from fresh, seasonal ingredients.
                                                        Auf Schönburg, 55430; 06744 939 30;
                                                        www.burghotel-schoenburg.de
                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40


   150-151_175705_BR_GER.indd   151                                     18/07/16   12:15 pm
   148   149   150   151   152   153   154   155   156   157   158