Page 187 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany

DRIVE 17: Jurassic Crags and Feudal Fiefdoms 185

Visit the Schlosskapelle 3 (open daily),
a little further to the right, before
enter ing the palace. The first purpose-
built Protestant church in Bavaria, it is
decorated with frescoes. The arcaded
inner court yard, or Schlosshof, boasts
faded murals depict ing scenes from
the Old Testament. Created by Hans
Schroer sometime after 1555, the
murals remained long buried
beneath a coat of paint and were
only redis covered in the 1960s. The
palace houses the Schlossmuseum
(closed Mon), whose varied exhibits
include the Bavarian state collection Above Schloss overlooking the Danube, Neuburg
of Flemish Baroque painting, with to Wolfgang-Wilhelm-Platz and the an der Donau Below Arcaded courtyard of
works by Rubens and Jacob Hützeldörr, the southern por tion of Schloss Neuburg, Neuburg an der Donau
Jordaens. Inside the Schloss, the garden. Return to the
the grandest room is the Obere Tor, pass through the
Renaissance Rittersaal, or gate and turn right into EAT AND DRINK
Knights’ Hall, in the north Herrenstrasse 9, which has
wing, with a heavy wooden some historic houses. It leads INGOLSTADT
ceiling and stout stone to the Luitpoldstrasse car Gaststätte Daniel inexpensive
columns. Return to the park via Landschaftsstrasse. Ingolstadt’s oldest restaurant, dating
back to 1471, provides an atmospheric
palace entrance and stop ª From Luitpoldstrasse, setting for traditional Bavarian cooking
for refresh ments at the head north over and Herrnbräu beers.
Vivat 4, a wine bar oppo- Elisenbrucke, following Roseneckstrasse 1, 85049; 0841 352 72;
site, then ascend the gen tle signs for Eichstätt. After a closed Mon
slope of Amalienstrasse, Column in Karlsplatz, few kilometres, turn left at Kuchlbauer Biermuseum inexpensive
which is lined with town Neuburg an der Donau the signpost for Bergen. Rustic beams and masses of brewing
houses from the 16th–18th paraphernalia ensure that this “beer
museum” lives up to its name. Try the
centuries. Halfway along Reformation and ox marinated in strong beer with a
Amalienstrasse is Karlsplatz, around Counter-Reformation mug of the delicious, dark Kuchlbauer
which Neuburg’s principal civic build- Neuburg’s pragmatic rulers straddled Vollbier Dunkel.
ings are ranged. These include the the religious divisions of 16th- and Schäffbräustrasse 11a, 85049; 0841 355
late-Renaissance Hofkirche Unsere 17th-century Germany. Ottheinrich 12; www.biermuseum-ingolstadt.de
Liebe Frau (Court Church of Our Dear con demned Lutheranism in 1522 NEUBURG AN DER DONAU
Lady), the Rathaus 5 or town hall – but converted in 1542; a later Count Neuwirt moderate
Palat inate, Wolfgang Wilhelm (1578–
a Renaissance palazzo built by Josef 1653), conver ted back to Catholicism Seasonal produce, including
Heintz and Alexander Pasqualini to inherit his mother’s estate. Schrobenhausen asparagus, potatoes
between 1603 and 1609 – and the and game, feature on the menu of this
Rococo Provinzialbibliothek 6 or restaurant, which serves local beers.
Färberstrasse 88, 86633; 08431 20 78;
provincial library (May–Oct: guided tours 3 Bergen www.neuwirt-neuburg.de; open till
Wed & Sun; 08431 552 40). Dating from Bavaria; 86633 midnight; closed Tue
1731, it has a Baroque hall on its Nestled in the rolling countryside
upper floor. The neigh bour ing between the Danube and Altmühl,
Weveldhaus 7 is a fine exam ple of a this sleepy village is worth a detour
nobleman’s town house. Built in 1517 to see the pilgrimage church of Heilig
and raised by one storey in 1713, it has Kreuz, whose elegant white-and-gold
graceful stucco ceilings and houses Baroque interior by the Eichstätt court
the Stadtmuseum (Mar–Dec: closed architect Giovanni Domenico Barbieri
Mon) with well-presented displays dates from 1756. Be sure to visit the
on the town’s history. Continue along Romanesque crypt; water from the
Amalienstrasse to reach the Obere well in the north aisle was once
Tor 8, a Renaissance gate way whose believed to have healing properties.
terracotta-coloured gable marks the ª Return to the T-junction, then turn
western exit from the Obere Altstadt. left and head to Nassenfels. Take
Decorated with Neuburg’s heraldic Eichstätter Strasse, pass Adelschlag
crest, it depicts Ottheinrich and his to get on to the B13, following signs
brother, Philipp. Pass through the gate to Eichstätt.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40

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