Page 189 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany

DRIVE 17: Jurassic Crags and Feudal Fiefdoms 187

6 Pappenheim Left Tall Romanesque tower, a remnant of
Bavaria; 91788 Beilngries’s medieval fortifications Below
With its picturesque setting and left Willibaldsburg, perched on a hill above
historic architecture, Pappenheim Eichstätt Below right Tomb of St Willibald
is one of the most attractive small at the Willibaldsburg in Eichstätt
towns in the region. Impressive
18th- and 19th-century houses line
the main street, Deisingerstrasse,
where the merchant’s house at
No. 16 has an inscription giving
the date of its con struction as the SHOPPING IN EICHSTÄTT
year 5608, accord ing to the Jewish Eichstätt has plenty of shops with
calendar. In the Middle Ages, fine handicrafts. At Goldschmiede
Pappenheim was the seat of the Berger (Marktplatz 9, 85072; 08421
Holy Roman Empire’s field marshal, 84 38), visitors can shop for exquisite
but today there is nothing warlike gold jewellery. Eichstätter Seifen-
stuberl (Ostenstrasse 11, 85072; 0160
about this sleepy, ruritanian town. 962 517 32) is a famous soap shop
It is dominated by a romantic ruined here. Wölfl Huthaus (Marktplatz 12,
castle (open daily) that hosts one 7 Beilngries 85072; 08421 16 20) sells a wide
of the region’s most atmospheric Bavaria; 92339 range of hats.
Christmas markets. Pappenheim Children and adults alike will be
also boasts two stately piles – the charmed by the magical old toys and EAT AND DRINK
festive-looking Renaissance Altes dolls at Beilngries’s Spielzeugmuseum
Schloss, or old palace, and the (Apr–Oct: open Mon–Sat pm & Sun; EICHSTÄTT
Neo-Classical new palace, or Neues Nov–Mar: open Wed, Sat & Sun pm; Gasthof Krone inexpensive
Schloss, built between 1819 and www.museen-anno-dazumal.de). Altmühl Valley lamb is the speciality
1820 by Bavarian court architect, Take a stroll around the picturesque of this snug, welcoming Gasthof (inn)
Leo von Klenze. Innerer Graben street in the old opposite Eichstätt’s cathedral. The
ª Return to Eichstätt via Solnhofen, town, which reveals the toy-town emphasis here is on local and
seasonal produce and there’s a
and enter the town on the B13. Turn dimensions of the medieval pleasant beer garden in summer.
left at the roundabout following fortifications, complete with nine Domplatz 3, 85072; 08421 44 06;
signs for Kinding and Beilngries. of the original twelve 15th-cen tury www.krone-eichstaett.de
towers. With its characterful old inns, BEILNGRIES
Romans and Bavarians the town is a good base for exploring Der Millipp moderate
The Limes – the frontier between this part of the Altmühl Valley. Regional produce dominates the
the Roman Empire and the ª Take the Kelheimer Strasse/B299, menu of this historic old guesthouse
Germanic tribes – passed through then turn left following signs for and butcher’s shop in the old town
the Altmühl region. A museum Dietfurt/Kelheim. Continue beyond of Beilngries. The setting is simple but
(Apr–Oct: open daily; Nov–Mar: open elegant, with pretty, rustic furniture,
Sat & Sun) at Kipfenberg Castle, Dietfurt along the the north bank of the wood and pale colours. In summer,
between Eichstätt and Beilngries, Main-Donau canal to Prunn. At Prunn, there is also a beer garden.
tells both sides of the story. turn left to get on to a minor road, Hauptstrasse 9, 92339; 08461 12 03;
which ascends to the castle car park. www.der.millipp.de

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40

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