Page 197 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany
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DRIVE 18: The Northern Romantic Road  195


       3 Bad Mergentheim       ª Continue along the Tauber Valley.   Centre left Stunning Marienaltar with
       Baden-Württemberg; 97980     Follow signs to Röttingen, taking the   Mary as the central figure, Creglingen
       Lying in a charming spot on    same road to Bieberehren, then drive   Below Pretty rural landscape, Creglingen
       the Tauber river, Bad Mergentheim   south to Creglingen. Herrgottskirche is
       was home to the Teutonic Knights   south of the junction with Rothenburger   HIKING NEAR THE
                                                         ROMANTISCHE STRASSE
       from 1527 to 1809. First built in    Strasse; there is parking on the side
       the 12th–13th centuries, the   of the road.      A long­distance hiking trail runs parallel
       Deutschordensschloss dominates                   to the Romantic Road, threading
       this leafy little spa town. The castle    The Teutonic Knights   through meadows and forests. Visitors
       houses a museum (closed Mon) with   Formed at the end of the 12th   can contact the nearest local tourist
                                                        office (www.romantischestrasse.de)
       staterooms and dis plays relating to   century to protect pilgrims in the   for more information.
       the Knights’ history. Just south of the   Holy Land, the Order of the Teutonic
       town, Pfarrkirche (closed Mon), the   Knights of St Mary’s Hospital in
       parish church at Stuppach, con tains   Jerusalem turned its attention to   EAT AND DRINK
                                Europe after the Crusades. In the
       a masterpiece, the Stuppacher   13th century, it took Christianity and
       Madonna (1519), by German   the German language to the Baltic,   WÜRZBURG
       Renaissance pain ter Matthias   creating the German colony of East   Ratskeller moderate
       Grünewald. Around 2 km (1 mile)   Prussia. After the Order’s Grand   The menu at this lovely, atmospheric
       from the town is the Wildpark Bad   Master, Albert of Brandenburg, con­  restaurant is a mix of steaks, salads
       Mergentheim (07931 56 30 50; www.  verted to Lutheranism in 1525, its   and hearty regional fare, such as
                                seat moved from Königsberg to Bad
       wildtierpark.de), which is spread over    Mergentheim. The Order’s distin ctive   liver dumpling soup or Franconian
                                                        bratwurst, all accompanied by
       35 ha (86 acres), and features more   black cross has become famous    delicious local wines.
       than 75 species in a natural setting.  as the model for the Iron Cross,   Langgasse 1, 97070; 0931 130 21;
       ª Head east along the B19/  Germany’s decoration for gallantry.   www.wuerzburger-ratskeller.de
       Igersheimer Strasse. From Igersheim,             TAUBERBISCHOFSHEIM
       turn right. Follow signs to Weikersheim.         Badischer Hof moderate
                               5 Creglingen             Regional cooking using seasonal
                               Baden-Württemberg; 97993     ingredients typifies the menu at
                               Upstream from Weikersheim, on the   the Badischer Hof, where dishes
                               Bavarian border, is the small town    such as roast stuffed pork with bread
                               of Creg lingen. Just south of its half­   dumplings or trout with potatoes are
                                                        accompanied by wines from the
                               tim bered centre is the Herrgottskirche   surrounding district.
                               (Feb, Mar, Nov & Dec: closed Mon; Apr–  Sonnenplatz, 97941; 09341 98 80;
                               Oct: open daily; closed Jan). This pilgrim­  www.hotelbadischerhof.de
                               age church shel ters a masterpiece by   WEIKERSHEIM
                               sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider.
                               Carved between 1493 and 1510, the   Restaurant im Gewölbe expensive
                                                        A stone­vaulted cellar is the setting
                               Marien    altar was so aligned that the   for Jürgen Koch’s gourmet cooking,
                               central figure of Mary is lit up through   which fuses international sophisti­
                               the chapel’s rose win dow on the Feast   cation with regional ingredients in
                               of the Assumption on 15 August.   dishes such as smoked trout fillet on
                                                        verjuice foam.
                               ª Return to Creglingen, turning right   Marktplatz 5, 97990; 07934 910 80;
                               on to the Romantische Strasse towards   www.hotel-laurentius.de;
                               Rothenburg ob der Tauber.   closed Sun–Tue
       4 Weikersheim
       Baden-Württemberg; 97990
       Weikersheim’s neat central square
       acts as a picturesque frame for
       Schloss Weikersheim (open daily),
       transformed in the 16th century,
       on the orders of Count Wolfgang II
       of Hohenlohe, into one of Germany’s
       most beautiful Renaissance palaces.
       The highlight of the interior is
       the Rittersaal, or knight’s hall, a
       vast banqueting hall with a magni fi­
       cent fireplace and painted ceiling.
       The Baroque palace garden,
       Schlossgarten, is graced by many
       fountains and more than 50 statues.
                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40


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