Page 199 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Germany

DRIVE 18: The Northern Romantic Road 197

Above left View of the medieval town of
World War II, of which barely a to Plönlein 6, a charm ing little fork in Rothenburg ob der Tauber Above right
trace now remains. Head back to the road, one of the most photogenic Stately Rathaus, Rothenburg ob der Tauber
Markusturm, through the Markt, to spots in Rothenburg. Return to the Below Retable depicting The Stigmatization
see the splendid Rathaus 5 rising Markt, turn ing left into Herrngasse, of St Francis, Franziskanerkirche
above. The town hall consists of two which boasts the town’s grandest
struc tures: the Renaissance building patri cian houses. A vaulted passage-
in front of the Markt dates from the way leads through the Rathaus to the GUIDED TOURS
late 16th cen tury, while the Gothic hist oric vaults, or Historiengewölbe 7 Wine Tours
struc ture behind it is much older. To (Jan–Feb: closed; Mar–Dec: open daily), Wine has been grown in the Tauber
the right, the gabled Ratstrinkstube, where Rothenburg’s travails during Valley since the 11th century, with
or City Councillors’ Tavern, is graced by the Thirty Years’ War are brought to Silvaner and Müller-Thurgau as the
a 17th-century clock. Mechanical life. Continue down Herrngasse to main grape varieties. Local tourist
offices have a list of wineries that can
figures emerge on the hour (10am– Franziskanerkirche 8 (Jan–Mar: closed; be visited by making an appointment.
10pm) to depict the story of the Apr–Dec: open daily), which con tains
Meistertrunk, the drinking bet that another Riemenschneider altar. Turn Night Walk
Listen to the story of this medieval
spared the city during the Thirty Years’ right into Trompetergässchen, and town on a guided walk with the night-
War. Return to the Markt, heading then left into Klosterhof to reach the watchman of Rothenburg ob der
downhill along Obere Schmiedgasse Reichsstadtmuseum 9 (open daily). Tauber. www.nightwatchman.de
Housed in a former conv ent, the
The Meistertrunk Legend imperial city museum’s collec tions
Protestant Rothenburg sided with include the Rothenburg Passion paint- EAT AND DRINK
the Swedes during the Thirty Years’ ings from the Franziskanerkirche and a
War, but was occupied by Catholic section on the town’s Jewish history. ROTHENBURG OB DER TAUBER
troops under General Tilly in 1631. ª Head south on Nördlinger Strasse Eisenhut expensive
According to a legend, Tilly agreed on to Rothenburger Strasse to Insingen. The Eisenhut hotel’s dining room
to spare the town from destruction Turn left to Diebach for Schillingsfürst. serves Franconian and international
fare in comfortable surroundings. It
if a councillor could down a 3.25-litre uses regional and seasonal produce
(5-pint) tank ard of wine in one 7 Schillingsfürst to create dishes such as game terrine
draught; former mayor Georg Nusch Bavaria; 91583 with frisée and cranberry vinaigrette
did so and Rothenburg was saved. Lording over the country side from the or vol-au-vent filled with veal and
This tale forms the basis for the highest outcrop of the Frankenhöhe mushroom ragout.
Meistertrunk Festival, a re-enact ment hills, the Baroque palace of Schloss Herrngasse 3–7, 91541; 09861 70 50;
of the mythi cal story, which takes Schillingsfürst (Apr–Oct: open daily) www.eisenhut.com
place at Whitsun. Reichsküchenmeister expensive
is still the seat of the princes of This snug, traditional restaurant serves
Hohenlohe-Schillingsfürst. While its refined German cooking such as carp
history dates back to the 11th cen- fillet in white wine sauce or Schnitzel
tury, the present building was built (venison fillet in breadcrumbs).
in the 18th century to designs by Kirchplatz 8, 91541; 09861 97 00;
www.reichskuechenmeister.com
Darmstadt court architect Louis Rémy
de la Fosse. Highlights include the SCHILLINGSFÜRST
Empfangssalon, or recep tion room, Schlosscafe Schillingsfurst moderate
hung with Gobelin tapes tries. A stone-walled restaurant that serves
ª Take the Frankenheimerstrasse. Franconian specialities, notably desserts
From Feuchtwanger Strasse turn right like Schneeballen (“snowballs” – balls of
fried sugared pastry).
on to a minor road. Turn left to Wörnitz. Am Wall 10, 91583; 09868 74 06;
Follow signs to B25/Feuchtwangen. www.schlosscafe-schillingsfuerst.de
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40

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