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196 BACK ROADS GERMANY
6 Rothenburg ob der Tauber
Bavaria; 91541
Without the catastrophe of the Thirty Years’ War (1618–48),
Rothenburg ob der Tauber might have been very different, for the loss
of population and vitality that followed the conflict helped preserve
its medieval and Renaissance townscape. Once a Free City of the
Holy Roman Empire, Rothenburg is now no more than a minor
country town, but its exceptional architectural heritage and scenic
position above the lovely Tauber Valley ensure that this perfect little
time capsule is one of Germany’s most beloved attractions.
A two-hour walking tour to the 12th-century Weisser Turm 3.
Park outside the old town, Altstadt, Part of the original inner town wall,
on Bezoldweg and head to the the “White Tower” is the highest point
Klingentor 1, one of several lofty in the Altstadt. Next to it, the half-
gates that punctuate Rothenburg’s tim bered Judentanzhaus, or Jewish
Above Galgentor, an old execution place, well-preserved medieval defences. dance hall, is a reminder of the town’s
Rothenburg ob der Tauber Built around 1400, the importance as a centre
Klingentor also served of Jewish culture in the
VISITING ROTHENBURG OB
DER TAUBER as a water tower. Within Middle Ages. The street
the bastion is the late leading east from Weisser
Parking 15th-century fortified Turm is known as
There are paid car parks at the church of St Wolfgang, Galgengasse, or Gallows’
northern and southern ends of the built into the town walls. Lane, as it once led to
old town, outside the town walls.
Continue into the Eagle crest from the Galgentor, the town’s
Tourist Information Altstadt, heading south the Rathaus gallows. Turn right down
Marktplatz 2, 91541; 09861 40 48 00; along Klingengasse, with Pfarrgasse, then left into
www.rothenburg.de
the Gothic bulk of the Lutheran Rödergasse, looking right to admire
WHERE TO STAY parish church of St Jakob 2 (open the pictur esque buildings around
daily) ahead. The interior is worth the Markusturm and Röder bogen, a
ROTHENBURG OB DER TAUBER visit ing for the Heilig Blut Altar, or town gate and former prison built
Gasthof Goldener Greifen moderate holy blood altar, by the Würzburg- around 1200. Walk to the end of
This family-run inn offers simple based master-sculp tor Tilman Rödergasse to the Röderturm 4
but charming accommodation. Riemenschneider. The altar’s detailed (Mar–Nov & Christmas Market: open daily),
Rooms are well equipped. portrayal of the Last Supper ranks as the only one of the town gates that
Obere Schmiedgasse 5, 91541; 09861 22 one of Riemenschneider’s finest can be climbed for views over the
81; www.gasthof-greifen-rothenburg.de
wood carvings. Leave the church and town. It contains an exhibition on
Burg Hotel expensive turn left along Kirchplatz, to carry on the bomb ing of Rothenburg during
A delightful hotel with lovely views
over the Tauber Valley. There are 15
individually decorated rooms and Klingentor B E Z O L D W E G
suites, with en-suite bathrooms. KL I N G E N S C H Ü T T K L I N G E N S C H Ü T T
Klostergasse 1–3, 91541; 09861 948 90;
www.burghotel.eu FUCHSENGÄSSCHEN HIRTENG
Eisenhut expensive KLOSTERWET H HEUGASSE S CHRANNEN G SCHLEGELEINSWETH
Located in the heart of the Altstadt, K L I N G E N G A S S E JUDENGASSE Weisser GALGENGASSE
this old hotel occupies four 16th- Reichsstadt- Turm
century patrician houses. Some of museum St Jakob
GEORGENGASSE
its 78 indivi dually styled rooms have KLOSTERHOF KIRCHPLATZ STOLLENGASSE
four-poster beds. All have satellite MILCHMARKT PARADEISGASSE ROSENG
TV, wireless Internet and en-suite Historiengewölbe MARKT
PFARRGASSE
bath or shower. TROMPETERGÄSSCHEN KLOSTERG MARKTPLATZ Markusturm RÖDERGASSE TOPPLERWEG HORNBURGWEG
Herrngasse 3–7, 91541; 09861 70 50; H E R R N G A S S E Rathaus HAFENGASSE
www.eisenhut.com B U R G G A S S E A L T E R K E L L E R WENGGASSE Röderturm
Franziskanerkirche ALTER STADTGRABEN
SCHILLINGSFÜRST
Die Post moderate OBERE SCHMIEDGASSE WENGGASSE
The Die Post offers superb views over Tauber RÖDERSCHÜT T
the valley. The in-house distillery pro-
duces Obstwasser, the fruity schnapps 0 metres 200
of the region.
Rothenburger Strasse 1, 91583; 09868 0 yards 200 Plönlein
95 00; www.flairhotel-diepost.de
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150
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