Page 104 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Argentina
P. 104

102      BUENOS  AIRES  AREA  B Y  AREA


                           panoramic view of the river
                           and recount the history of the
                           church as well as the area. Inside
                           is a beautiful Baroque altar, fea-
                           turing Inca motifs, which was
                           brought along the Camino Real
                           mule-train route from Peru. The
                           church is often open between
                           services, and visitors can wander
                           down into the crypt and see a
                           small but interesting collection
                           of religious art contained in one
                           of the adjoining cloisters.
       The exquisite Baroque altar at the Iglesia de
       Nuestra Señora del Pilar                Centro Cultural Recoleta, venue of exciting
                           2 Centro Cultural   artistic experimentation
       1 Iglesia de        Recoleta
       Nuestra Señora                          first mayor of Buenos Aires,
       del Pilar           Junín 1930. City Map 2 C2. Tel (011)   Torcuato de Alvear, began a
                                               campaign to Europeanize and
                           4803-1040. @ 10, 17, 60, 92, 110.
       Junín 1904. City Map 2 C2. Tel (011)   Open 1:30–8:30pm Tue−Fri, 11:30am−   embellish the city, and this prime
       4803-6793. @ 10, 17, 60, 92, 110.   8:30pm Sat, Sun, & hols. 7 =   chunk of real estate was
       Open varies. 5 8am, 11am, & 7:30pm   ∑ centro culturalrecoleta.org/  reclaimed for the barrio. Architect
       Mon–Fri, 8:30am, 11am, & 7pm Sat,   nuevositio  Juan Buschiazzo was responsible
       8.30am, 10am, 11am, noon, 7pm, 8pm,     for the refurbishment, adding
       9pm Sun. ∑ basilicadelpilar.org.ar  This complex of buildings dates   the pavilions, elegant Italianate
                           from the 17th century and is   terraces, and a chapel, which is
       Donated to the monks of   one of the oldest in the city.    now an auditorium. After a brief
       Recoleta in 1716 by Zaragoza-  The plot was donated to the   period as a home for the elderly,
       born entrepreneur Don Juan de   monks of Recoleta in 1716,    the complex was remodeled in
       Narbona, this church takes its   and Jesuit architects Juan Krauss  1980 and became the Centro
       name from Zaragoza’s patron   and Juan Wolf drew up the   Cultural Recoleta (CCR).
       saint, Señora del Pilar (Virgin of   plans. Andrés Blanqui is thought     The barrio may be ultra-
       Pilar). Jesuit archi tect Andrés   to have worked on the façade   bourgeois, but there is nothing
       Blanqui built it along the lines of   and interiors of the on-site   conservative about the
       a classic Spanish church of the   monastery. During the 19th   schedule of art events that take
       period. Later refine ments include   century the building served    place at this sprawling cultural
       an exterior clock made in Britain   as an art school founded by   center. About 20 galleries are
       and Pas-de-Calais ceramic tiles.  liberation hero General Manuel   used for stimu lating visual arts
         The exterior murals are   Belgrano, and also as a refuge   exhi bitions, various theatrical
       inspired by the work of Spanish   for the local homeless.   works, and film projections.
       painter Fernando Brambilia,      The Recoleta barrio became   A number of small dance and
       an 18th-century specialist    popular with the middle classes   theater companies use the
       in perspec tive. They show a   in the 1870s. During this time, the  CCR as a rehearsal space.
                                               3 Cementerio de
                                               la Recoleta
                                               See pp104–5.
                                               4 Café La Biela
                                               Ave Quintana 600. City Map 2 C2.
                                               Tel (011) 4804-0449. @ 59, 60, 101,
                                               102, 110. Open 7–3am daily. 7
                                               ∑ labiela.com

                                               If it lacks the atmosphere and
                                               artistic ghosts of the grand Café
                                               Tortoni (see p74), La Biela still has
                                               a certain old-world appeal. The
                                               terrace could be housed in the
       A contemporary installation at the Centro Cultural Recoleta  streets of Rome or Paris, except
       For hotels and restaurants in this area see p279 and pp289–90


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     Eyewitness Travel   LAYERS PRINTED:
     Catalogue template    “UK” LAYER
     (Source v2.6)
     Date 12th July 2013
     Size 125mm x 217mm
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