Page 234 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

232 BAGAN AND AROUND AROUND BAGAN
5 By car A trip by car to Salay from Bagan costs around $35– including Mount Popa. To book, ask in travel agencies and
40 for a half-day, or around $60–70 for a day-long tour also hotels around Bagan.
EATING
★ Salay House 481 Strand Rd T09 797 222 122, who speaks English and German, also conducts historical
Wsalayhouseburma.com. In the centre of town, and walking tours of the town and is in the process of setting
overlooking the river, this colonial building has been up day-trips from Bagan. Upstairs, the couple have
impeccably restored by the wonderful Win Thidakhine assembled a little museum-like re-creation of a colonial
and her husband, and turned into a café and craft shop. Englishman’s house, complete with pith hats,
They serve fruit juices and daily specials such as gramophones and King George VI commemorative
vegetarian curries and pickled tea-leaf salads, and Win, plates.

Pakokku and around

A large, leafy town on the north bank of the Ayeyarwady around 30km northeast of
Bagan, PAKOKKU hit the international headlines in 2007 when local monks took to the
streets to protest against skyrocketing fuel prices, kick-starting the nation’s ill-fated
“Saffron Revolution” (see p.376). Things are a lot quieter now, while the opening of a
huge new bridge (the longest in Burma) over the river in 2011 resulted in the demise
of the old ferry service to Bagan, meaning that most travellers now pass straight
through. The town is still a worthwhile destination for a half-day trip, however,
offering a trio of temples and an interesting slice of traditional life compared to touristy
Nyaung U down the river.

Thihoshin Pagoda
The eye-poppingly glittery Thihoshin Pagoda, in the centre of town, is instantly
recognizable thanks to the large clocktower next to the main entrance, and its interior
is dazzling, with virtually every surface covered in multicoloured glass mosaics. The
large courtyard at the back is home to a modest museum (free), piled high with
assorted exhibits in glass cases including the usual old Buddhas, banknotes, bells,
palanquins, lacquerware and a considerable quantity of dust.
Shwegugyi Pagoda
• Just under 1km down the road from Thihoshin Pagoda
Like the Thihoshin Pagoda, the Shwegugyi Pagoda is a study in Burmese kitsch, its
main shrine decorated with abundant white-and-orange frills and flourishes, with a
slender golden stupa on top. The interior is contrastingly plain, save for the temple’s
prized Tangetawgyi Buddha, framed against a hundred-year-old woodcarved backdrop,
its mass of intricate filigree populated by 136 little people along with various birds and
animals. The top of the carving depicts the Buddha’s descent from the Trayastrimsha
heaven to earth after preaching to the gods above, accompanied by Indra and Brahma
– a favourite subject of Burmese artists.
Also inside the shrine is a cabinet of curiosities, which includes eight swordfish bills
of various sizes. Nobody can explain how or why they are here, but it’s likely they were
traded or a gift.
Shwe Mo Htwa
• Around 3km east of the town centre beside the river
The town’s third major temple is the Shwe Mo Htwa, a pretty little complex with a dense
cluster of spiky-roofed shrines painted in various shades of gold and green, all arranged
around a large courtyard dotted with prayer poles and planetary posts. The temple stands
on the edge of town overlooking the Ayeyarwady, with sweeping views up- and downriver.