Page 303 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

AMARAPURA Mandalay and around 301
U Bein Bridge
• Daily 24hr • In theory part of the Mandalay Combination Ticket (see box, p.286), although it’s highly unlikely you’ll be
asked to produce it
The world’s longest teak footbridge, the spectacular U Bein Bridge stretches more than
1200m across Lake Taungthaman. Most evenings it probably also hosts the world’s
longest unbroken line of tourists: no bad thing, and in fact quite a spectacle when the
colours of everyone’s shirts flare up in the sun’s last rays. Though most visit at this time,
early birds can catch something similar with far fewer people at daybreak.
The bridge’s existence stems from a salvage job that took place following one of
Myanmar’s many changes of regal power: after the palace was shifted north to
Mandalay in 1859, Amarapura’s mayor U Bein decided to create a bridge using the teak
support columns left behind. There are, today, just over a thousand pillars along the
course of the bridge, some of which have been replaced with concrete poles. If you’re
wondering why the thing was built so high above the lake, you’re obviously visiting in
the dry season – the water level rises considerably after the rains.
Most visitors like to walk the length of the bridge, so unless you want to walk it 7
twice, ask your driver to pick you up from the other end.
Kyauktawgyi Pagoda
• Daily 6am–6pm • Free
A short walk from the eastern end of U Bein Bridge, the Kyauktawgyi Pagoda (also
known as the Taungthaman Pagoda) was commissioned in 1847 by King Pagan Min
to a design based on the great Ananda Paya at Bagan. It’s a somewhat smaller and
dumpier affair than its older relative, but still impressive enough, as are its extensive,
intricately detailed paintings showing assorted religious buildings across the country
either built or restored by Pagan Min, plus various astrological symbols and pictures
of nineteenth-century Burmese at work and play.
Maha Gandayon Kyaung
• Entrance on Maha Gandar Yone St • Daily 24hr • Free
Home to hundreds of monks, the huge, nationally renowned Maha Gandayon Kyaung
sprawls across the area to the west of the U Bein Bridge. The monastery is best avoided
during the mornings from around 10am to 11.30am, when swarms of tour groups
arrive to stare at the monks eating lunch – a lot like feeding time at a human zoo.
At other times it’s an enjoyable place for aimless wandering, with a tree-shaded and
wonderfully peaceful sprawl of monastic halls, although surprisingly few religious
buildings or Buddhist iconography on display, giving the place the look and feel of
a rather idyllic university campus.
Kyaw Aung Sandar Pagoda
Daily 24hr • Free
On the north side of the Maha Gandayon Kyaung, the Kyaw Aung Sandar Pagoda sees
few foreign visitors but is well worth a look for its seriously wacky array of statues.
These include a pair of absolutely gargantuan Buddhas, one sitting and one reclining;
a golden hall full of seated and standing Buddhas, with assorted animals outside;
and a large green circular shrine guarded by a pair of giant owls.

Pahtodawgyi and around
• Entrance to south of complex • Daily 24hr • Free
If cycling south from Mandalay, Pahtodawgyi will be the first hint that you’re nearing
Amarapura – a giant white, bell-shaped stupa protruding from the flatlands, completed
in 1819 at the beginning of King Bagyidaw’s reign. Male visitors can get a great view of
the surrounding countryside by walking up to the stupa’s upper level – sadly, women
are not allowed.

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